You see, I’m convinced there really is something to that Aria Calabra that changes a once innocent, well-meaning, pooch-petting boy into a hormone-ranging mostro.

And it all started in Pizzo.

Auntie Adventures: Italian Beach Bums

Pizzo is one of my favorite little villages in Calabria and since it is only 45-minutes or so from Catanzaro, it made for a sensible day trip. We headed out-on the train … more on that later-to check out the Murat Castle, go swimming in the Tyhennian Sea and taste-test tartufo in Pizzo’s main piazza.

And all went according to plan.

We toured the castle, I forced a picture of Cole and a statue, we had tartufo.

Then we went to the beach. In fact, we found an ideal cove of tan sand and rocks, just large enough for a few people and their beach towels, and plopped down to enjoy a few hours of private beach bummin’,

The boys had a great time and just before I called “time’s up,” they swam around the big boulder to my right-to another hidden bay of private beach bliss and had the surprise of their young lives.

A topless sunbather.

I looked up and saw Cole, stumbling towards me in a drunken stupor, wide eyes, goofy grin.

“Cici!” He said. (See, he is still a kid-he calls me by a special name.) “You’ll never guess what we saw. A woman without her bra!”

I jumped up. “Ok, boys. Time to go. We’ll miss the train … Come on. Andiamo!”

They reluctantly joined me and immediately started sizing her up.

“They were so big,” Cole said. “I gotta call Uncle Peppe!”

“They weren’t that big,” the older and wiser 14 year old, Jake told him. “She was probably a ‘C’.”

“They were big,” Cole insisted. “And there were like, nipples or something.”

“Enough, boys! Basta.” I had to stop it. I flashed back to October 17, 2000-just seconds after he was born-it was too soon to be hearing about nipples.

We hopped on the train and an hour or so later we were back in Catanzaro-the boys wearing a bit more pride on their upturned chests, Cole, with a glimmer of knowledge that shouldn’t be there, shining in his deep green eyes and me, with all of the stress and worry of an aunt who’d just allowed her sister’s nine year old child to grow up a bit too soon.

But all’s well that ends well. My sister laughed and forgave me, Cole thinks I’m the coolest aunt in the country and I’ve learned there is a lot more to beach bums than should ever meet the eye.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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My friend Lisa over at Wanderlust Women’s Travel Dreams urged me to share some of my Auntie Adventures with you on the blog, so with Lisa’s urging and my sister’s insistence for details of our day-to-day activities, I’ve decided to chronicle some of our adventures here.

Boardwalk Surprises

Our first adventure takes place on a Sunday evening on the Catanzaro Lido lungomare. We have plans-the two boys, my husband and I-to meet up with friends for pizza, gelato and a night of people-watching on the lungmare.

Like many other seaside towns in Italy, Catanzaro Lido’s lungomare is bursting with people of all ages, walking their dogs, meeting their friends, gathering to play in the arcade or just checking out who on the lungomare is checking them out.

As we parked our car into one of too-tight spaces we’d managed to wrangle, our friends call and tell us they’ll be an hour late.

“No problem,” we thought. “We’ll just hang out here with the boys.”

As we were approaching the beach, a middle-aged man with a beagle passes us.

“Look!” Cole said. “A doggie! How do you say, ‘Can I pet your dog in Italian?’”

Knowing “accarezzare” would be too difficult for him to remember in Italian, we told him to just point to the dog and say “Posso?”

And so he did. (Except he said “Cosso?” and the guy had a hard time figuring out what this nine year old American kid was trying to tell him about his pooch.)

My husband came to the rescue, corrected Cole’s pronunciation and on we went.

However, anyone with kids will know that if you do something once, you’re going to get asked again. And again. And yet again.

Not content sitting on the lungomare waiting for dog-walkers to approach us, Cole began stalking them -searching for them, chasing them down the boardwalk, dashing to get ahead of them so he could accidentally bump into them in passing.

“Posso?”

They were all charmed and every one of those Calabrians freely offered up their pooch for his petting.

A few minutes before our friends scheduled arrival, we grabbed a seat on one of the orange-slice benches that faces the Ionian.

“Cole,” I told him, trying to give the dogs and their owners a piccolo break. “Most people don’t come to the lungomare to look at pets. They come to look at girls like the one your Uncle Peppe is pretending not to look at now.”

“Oh yea,” his face lit up. “Like her.”

I followed his gaze and it was, indeed, the same leggy blond Uncle Peppe was pretending he hadn’t seen.

“Yes,” I told him. “Like her.”

He glanced around the lungomare and as our friends arrived we began our stroll towards the pizzeria. The previous conversation forgotten by everyone but Cole, he blurted out, “That one! That’s the one I like.”

We looked over to a 30something blond, with a turquoise blue tank and tight blue jeans (“And black boots,” says Cole, as he reads this over my shoulder, “Don’t forget her black boots!”)

A pretty girl woman, indeed.

Everyone laughed at his choice and we continued on our way.

Ten minutes later, we enter the pizzeria and who do we see sitting at the bar? Blue Tank Top, herself.

A quick restroom break, hand-wash and scan around the pizzeria later (since he now knows that is what expected of men in Calabria), Cole and Uncle Peppe pass the bar.

To everyone’s surprise-and to Uncle Peppe’s astonishment, embarrassment, discomfort-Cole walks past Blue Tank Top, turns to look at her and her brunette friend and says, “Ciao bella!”

The table bursts into laughter and shy Uncle Peppe crawls into the hole he mentally blazed into the floor.

It is soon over, though.

Blue Tank Top leaves the pizzeria with her stack of to-go boxes and bag of arancini and walks my nephew’s nine-year-old heart out the door.

But all is well. In just a few days he’ll go to Pizzo and there will be another-albeit just as unattainable surprise waiting for him there.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

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Yes, the world had already been introduced to Yahoo IM and AOL … I even had a Windows Live Messenger account, but I knew it wasn’t enough.

New expats now have Skype and can video and voice chat computer-to-computer for hours without getting into debt. But that doesn’t work for everyone.

My family is from a small town in the Big Thicket, where high speed wireless is just being introduced. Sure, they could use an Internet key, but for people who are at work as much as they are home, it was a hassle they weren’t ready to face.

Additionally, I wanted to be able to call my mom at work … where she can’t Skype, have long chats with my Skype-free grandparents and be able to call cousins, aunts, uncles and friends when I wanted.

photo credit: dno1967

Like I did in the US.

And I dreaded my international move because of this.

Luckily for me, the powers that be at Telecom Italia understood my dilemma and stepped in-just in the nick of time-to help.

For €10 a month, Telecom customers can sign up for Teleconomy Internazionale, the calling plan that lets you call unlimited minutes to landlines in the United States and to countries throughout Western Europe.

And it has been a lifesaver.

Of course, that calling plan will be used a little bit differently for the next five weeks. From today through the end of June I’ll be in Texas, speaking face-to-face with my family and Texas-based friends and it will be my dear ‘ole husband-stranded in southern Italy, diligently working at our bed and breakfast-who’ll be making those calls.

Regular readers will notice my posting schedule has been a little different this month. I’ll continue to post a few times a week and will post new Travel Tip Tuesday updates twice a month throughout the summer.

Why the whole summer, you ask?

Well, because I’m not coming back empty-handed.

In July, Il Cedro B&B will have two new employees … my nine year old nephew, Cole and my friend’s 14 year old son, Jake. I know the boys are anxious to get to Calabria and are ready, no doubt, to iron sheets, scrub bathtubs and serve hot coffee to go to the beaches. And well, I can’t let them down, now can I?

Have a great June and I’ll see you when I get back!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: gstene

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Every time I go to Texas I get hit with questions about Twitter. Most of my corporate friends don’t get it and they think it is just another social media outlet for people to tell the world up-to-the-minute details of their ever-changing lives. And well, some people probably do use Twitter for such communications.

However, savvy travelers know better.

Personally, I’ve used Twitter to get restaurant recommendations on the Amalfi Coast, to gather information on hotels in Rome and even to communicate with staff members at an airline. In fact, I love Twitter-I only wish I could find more time to manage my lists and participate in the #travel and #italy communities.

Not sure what all of that is about?

Well never fear.

Christine Gilbert, author of Almost Fearless recently published her first ebook, Twitter for Travelers. It is 49 pages of tips for finding travel experts, asking the right questions and cultivating your Twitter karma.

If you don’t know Christine-you should. She took the giant leap womankind has been dreaming of when she left her corporate job in the summer of 2008 and began traveling the world with her husband. Her website is devoted to helping others become the digital nomad she is today.

Christine’s second ebook 30 Ways in 30 Days to Redesign Your Life and Travel the World is available and is-get this!-free. At least for now.

Head over to Christine’s place, grab her RSS-that is RSS, down boys-and you’ll receive a link to download the book.

If you are considering using Twitter for your Italy travel plans, then you are in luck. Here are 25 (and counting!) of my favorite Italy Twits, in no particular order!

Italylogue

MichelleFabio

MyMelange

RomePhotoBlog

FlipFlorence

DierdreS

CalabriaMia

NewsFromItaly

AKNickerson

Calabrisella

DivinaCucina

InItalyTours

CiaoAmalfi

DreamofItaly

Amalari

LivingVenice

WhenInRomeTours

TasteOfItaly

CaribRagazza

KatieParla

BellissimaTina

BellaVentura

ItalyTutto

ExpatCoachMegan

MentalMosaic

Italofile

MissExpatria

Modicana

Oh and you can follow me at mybellavita.

What Italy travel Twittin’ gurus did I leave off of my list? I know I missed some great ones! Please add them in the comments (there is a bonus if you do …)

Don’t forget to see what travel tips Robin has for you today.

Speaking of Robin and bonuses …

Today’s My Bella Vita relaunch prize of the day is brought to you directly from Robin of My Mélange who is offering one lucky My Bella Vita reader an 8X10 frame-able photo of their choice.

There are three ways to win.

1. If you are on Twitter, all you have to do is “Tweet” this post using the green Retweet button above. I’ll see the tweet via the automated @mybellavita inclusion and you’ll be entered into today’s drawing.

2. If you also post it on Facebook (and tell me so in the comments) you’ll receive an additional entry.

3. List another Italy twitterer (one not mentioned above) in the comments, and you will receive a third entry.

This contest will run through Sunday, December 13 at midnight, Italy time. So get to twittin’ and don’t forget to enter to win a premium subscription to ItalianPod101 while you are at it!

If you can’t wait until Sunday to grab some of Robin’s photos, then head on over now. She is offering *free* shipping on the image of the week.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

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American tourists often get a bad rap. We are stereotyped as being loud, single-language slobs who are demanding, obnoxious and egocentric.

And sometimes they are right.

For a long time I’ve wanted to write a post about American tourists in Calabria and how 95% of the time, they bust that stereotype wide open. Then, a group of Americans will visit us who fit that mold and make me rethink the idea of the great American traveler.

After two years of running our B&B in Calabria, both my Italian husband and I think American guests rock. In general, they are most respectful, the most gracious and the most grateful guests who pass through our doors-and we love them.

In honor of Thanksgiving week, I present to you my non-ode-because I can’t write poetry-to American Tourists. Here are 10 reasons why we love you, American Tourists in Calabria.

We love you for …

- the nervous emails you send while planning your trip

- how we often feel like we know you, before you’ve ever stepped foot in the bel paese

- how you offer to bring little reminders of home, whether it is a new coffee press, Ziploc bags or English-language books

- the glimmer in your eye as you explore Calabria

- the excitement that radiates from you as you tell us about your journey

- how you marvel at every little thing you see and think each place you visit is better than the last

- how you aren’t afraid to try new things or eat unidentified dishes

- appreciating the locals and respecting their way of life

- respecting us, our bed and breakfast and the other guests you meet here

But most of all, American Tourists, we love you for loving Calabria, for appreciating her rugged beauty and timeless charm and for leaving us like you found us. We are just a little bit better off for having met you.

Happy Thanksgiving Week!

I know, I know … it seems too early to think about Holiday gifts but I’m sure everywhere you look there are Christmas trees and nativity scenes, or maybe that is just here in Italy? They get ready for Christmas so early here, it is like Thanksgiving doesn’t even exist. It is like, they have skipped it entirely.

The truth of the matter is, it isn’t too early to be thinking about that perfect gift. Christmas is just six weeks away-six weeks!-and while I can’t speak for the travelers in your life, I can offer these five ideas to get you going.

photo credit: alancleaver_2000

1. Travel Gift Certificates

Frequent travelers love nothing more than traveling and when it is on somebody else’s dime, well that is the equivalent to having our own little private island holiday wrapped in bacon.

You know what I mean.

If your favorite traveler likes to cruise, check out Cruise Brothers, or consider Bed and Breakfast.com or CityPass for frequent domestic travelers.

2. Lightweight Luggage Scale

I wrote about the Travelon luggage scale last year, but I love this baby so much it is worth the repeat. This is an ideal stocking stuffer or inexpensive gift that I guarantee the traveler in your life will love, especially as airlines increase their Scrooge-like policies on luggage weight and carry-ons.

3. In-Flight Comfort

Speaking of Mr. Airline Scrooge, many of them now charge for blankets and since you don’t want your favorite traveler shivering-or sniffling from using a germ-infected blanket-why not hook them up with one. While you are at it, go ahead and think about other comfort items such as neck pillows, a lumbar pillow or ear plugs. Word to the wise: Be careful of choosing products that are too heavy or bulky for your traveler to take with them.

4. Books, Books, Books

Ok, this seems to be in direct contradiction to what I said above about weight, but if the traveler on your list is about to visit a new destination, why not get them a book set in that location? If your traveler is heading to southern Italy, for example, try In Etna’s Shadow by Karen Landes or My Cousin the Saint by Justin Catanoso. Also keep in mind that while hard cover books make nicer gifts, paperbacks are a traveler’s best friend.

5. Memories

Whether you are buying for a full-fledged travel writer-in which case, check out this list at Travel Writer’s Exchange-or a traveler who likes to document his voyages, notebooks, journals, pens and memory cards are always a good bet!

What other gift ideas do you have for frequent travelers?

I wonder what Robin has going on today at My Melange.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

* The Amazon links are affiliate links.

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Little old men in southern Italy have been making homemade wines since they could walk, unfortunately, after taste-testing the different kinds of homemade wine … you can’t walk.

And that is pretty much where I was a few weeks ago when I agreed to go on an interpreting trip to Basilicata to help some fellow Calabrians communicate with long-lost American relatives.

Nice picture, eh?

Well, see that little ole man standing on the right? Let’s just say Ernest and Julio should have outsourced to Potenza, because this signore here has acres after acres of fresh grapes, sprouting on the vine, anxious to pop and share their wine-making juices with the world.

Since I was a special guest , he gave me one of his handmade baskets and let me fill it to the brim with fresh grapes.

Oh yea … those baskets are handmade. You have to be resourceful when you make this much wine.

Apparently, he used to sell most of it, but today, it is just a labor of love for him, his wife of 62 years and his children, grandchildren and special friends.

I like most homemade wines and love when the vino novello comes out each fall. What about you? Do you like homemade wines or are you more of the older-is-better type of wine connoisseur?

Like many travelers, I agonize over finding the perfect hotel-the ideal resting spot that strikes the balance between making me feel at home … and making me feel pampered.

And friends, I’ve found my home away home … in Rome.

My husband and I first met Paola, the perky, bright-eyed owner of Roma Axa 27 on that fateful February night when we rushed from our home in Catanzaro to join my family in Texas.

Not only did she open her home to us, but she welcomed us with open arms-and an open heart-and I’ll always be thankful for her graciousness.

In the last seven months, I’ve visited Paola and Roma Axa 27 on several more occasions-in fact, when traveling to or through the Rome airport, I wouldn’t stay anywhere else.

This B&B is everything a small, family-run hotel should be-it is spotlessly clean, the owner is generous and friendly and the extras-such as complimentary in-room bottled water, tea and crackers make it the perfect place to stop-over when traveling through Rome.

Both of the rooms have a private bath-one with en-suite bath-and transfers to and from the airport are included in the price-which ranges from €35-€40 per person.

There is a piazza located about 300 meters from Roma Axa 27, where travelers can venture to the heart of Rome via a 30-minute bus ride or choose to shop, have dinner or enjoy an evening passeggiata.

You can read more about Roma Axa 27 at RomeAirportAccommodations.com. To make a reservation or to check availability, email Paola at roma.axa.27 (at) gmail (dot) com or call (39) 340 3586057.

Be sure to tell her Cherrye sent you!

Happy Labor Day everyone and a very Happy Birthday to my little sister who is set to enjoy the last year in her current decade! Auguri, Charlee.

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Welcome to the 2nd edition of “The Life of a Saint.” This week we’re honoring, Saint Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Portuguese saint who-although his followers had to travel more than 2,000 kilometers-had the loudest, if not the largest, cheering section at the Canonization.
 

 
This group was fascinating. They cheered and chanted and sang songs whose words were incomprehensible, but whose love and devotion to their hometown Saint illuminated the square.
 
Truth be known … I was a little jealous. I wanted to feign Portuguese, hop in the circle and join in with their singing and dancing … but my husband held me back.
 
So who was this saint they were cheering for? None other than Saint Nuno Álvares Pereira, also called Saint Nuno of Santa Maria, the 14th century general who helped Portugal secure independence from Castile.
 

 
Saint Nuno descended from Portuguese nobility and had-get this!-32 siblings. He married at 17 and had one daughter but was later widowed. He is described as a war hero and a knight  although he was often referred to as “the Peacemaker.” After his daughter married, he renounced his nobility and gave one-third of his wealth to the poor. He later relinquished all of his money and entered the monestary he had established.
 
At one point he was so famished, he traded his horse for six loaves of bread, then gave them to hungry English knights who were searching for food. But his blood line and sacrifice weren’t in vain.
 
According to BlessedNuno.Org,
 

“His direct descendants included Isabella the Catholic, supporter of Christopher Columbus, Emperor Charles V, who ruled over more territory than any other European monarch (including most of the Americans), and Archduke Ferdinand, whose death triggered the World War which was tearing Europe apart at the time of Our Lady’s Fatima apparitions.
 
Also descended from Blessed Nuno were the members of the Royal House of Braganca, monarchs of Portugal and Brazil, including England’s Queen Catherine, for whom the Borough of Queens, New York was named.”

 
November 6 was established as the Saint Day to celebrate Saint Nuno, although many people still recognize his life on the anniversary of his death which is April 1.
 
Did you miss last week’s “The Life of a Saint?” If so, click here to read about Saint Geltrude “Caterina” Comensoli or click here to read about Calabria’s own, Saint Gaetano Catanoso.
 
Happy Love Thursday!
 

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It is that time of year again … schools are wrapping up, kids are heading to the nearest watering hole and their parents and friends are planning summer BBQs and outdoor picnics.
 
But just in case you don’t have time-or the desire to melt away under the glaring Texas sun-you have another option … especially if you are in southeast Texas.
 

 
Located on Highway 96 between Silsbee and Beaumont in Lumberton, Dippity’s serves up the biggest, freshest, juiciest burgers in southeast Texas … or so says my husband whose sole mission on each of his Texas trips is to find the best burger in town.
 
Like Burger King, you can have it your way-with lettuce, maters, mayo, even jalapenos all stacked on fresh ground beef and sandwiched between homemade buns … Who could ask for more in a burger?
 
Sink your teeth into that baby. Dippity’s famous Texas Tummy Tackler …
 

 
Or this one … for smaller tummies.
 

 
Dippity’s is located in a strip mall with an unassuming facade-neon sign excluded-and no frills interior, but the drastically affordable prices (the standard-sized burger is $3.89) and friendly hometown staff prove that Dippity’s is nothing more than your neighborhood burger joint-with kick ass burgers.
 
But don’t take our word for it-if you are in the area, check it out yourself.
 

Dippity’s

815 S. Main Street

Lumberton, Texas

(409) 755-3632

 
May all of your burgers today be Dippity-good burgers … Happy Memorial Day!
 

 
One of the best things about Rome, as in many Italian cities, is the undeniably delicious food you get to eat when you’re there. Know what’s even more fun? Bringing that dish home with you.
 
Of all of the typically Romano dishes, Cacio e Pepe, is one of the best-and likely the easiest-to make at home.
 
Here is what you need to whip this up at your house.
 
Ingredients:
(Serves two)
>> 200 grams / almost half a pound Spaghetti or Bucatini Pasta
>> 100 grams / 3.5 ounces Pecorino Romani Cheese
>> Fresh Black Pepper
>> One spoon of Butter
 
Directions:
 
1. Boil pasta in heavily salted water until al dente
 
2. In another pan, melt the butter and half of your Pecorino cheese
 
3. Conserve 1/2 cup of the boiling water, then drain the pasta and add it to the pan with the melted cheese
 
4. Generously pepper the mixture
 
5. If sauce is too thick, add the hot salted water, as needed
 
6. Dish the pasta into individual bowls and top with the remaining Pecorino and more black pepper.
 
Buon Appetito!
 
In case you missed previous Rome Week entries-where have you been?-we’ll help you catch up.
 
Weekend in Rome Overview
How NOT to Get Robbed in Rome
Where to Eat in Rome
A Pictorial Tour of Rome: Editor’s Pics
 
Have you tried other Roman specialties? What is your favorite?
 
Buon Weekend!
 

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Nope. That isn’t a typo.
 
Believe it or not, I was only in Rome three nights-in fact, my feet were on ancient Roman ground less than 72 full hours yet I somehow managed to take 316 pictures.
 
I kid you not.
 
Continuing with Rome Week, I present to you a pictorial tour of the Eternal City-with just a few words thrown in. Come on, now. I’m a writer-I can’t leave it all up to the pics, now can I?
 

My husband doesn’t like to hold a camera straight … this time, I think it worked.

 
The most notable symbol of the Roman Empire was built between 70-72 AD for gladiator games and public shows. With seating for up to 50,000 people, the Colosseum also housed mock sea battles, animal hunts and executions before being converted into housing, a workshop site, a fortress and a Christian shrine. It is estimated that 500,000 people and over a million wild animals lost their lives inside the Colosseum.
 

Where else in the world are you led to ruins … by ruins?

 
In ancient Roman times, the forum-taken from the Latin word, foras, meaning “a place out doors,”-was the central hub for the community and served as a place for public meetings, assemblies and community activities. The Roman Forum is particularly enticing since it is a living-albeit, crumbling-history book. I recommend hiring a tour guide, or at least purchasing an audio tour or descriptive guidebook for your visit.
 

The builders of this temple arrived in Rome via Magna Graecia in southern Italy

 
Located in the Roman Forum, the Temple of Castor and Pollux was constructed to honor the Dioscuri, for their battlefield assistance. According to legend, two unknown horsemen, presumed to be the twin brothers, Castor and Pollux helped the Roman soldiers to victory in the Battle of Lake Regillus. The temple was completed in 484 BC.
 

An eerily clear photo of Pope Benedict XVI during Sunday Mass in Saint Peter’s Square

 
Pope Benedict XVI was born Joseph Alois Ratzinger and is the world’s 265th Pope. He was the oldest person elected to the Papacy since 1730 and has strong, conservative Catholic views. He stirred controversy in the church when he restored the Traditional Latin Mass as an approved form of Catholic church services.
 

Neptune is riding a shell-shaped chariot in the center of the Trevi Fountain

 
If you haven’t seen the Trevi Fountain in person you really can’t grasp its magnitude. Standing 85 feet tall and 65 feet wide, the Baroque fountain is where one goes to toss a coin and ensure a return to Rome. Each day €3,000 are tossed into the fountain and are used to subsidize a supermarket for Rome’s needy families.
 
In case you missed earlier Rome Week posts, we’ve discussed
 
- A weekend in Rome: An Overview
 
- How NOT to get Robbed in Rome
 
- Eating Out in the Eternal City
 
Be sure to come back tomorrow for a recipe for one of my favorite Roman dishes!
 

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It is hump day here at My Bella Vita and we are smack in the middle of Rome Week, and with all of the sightseeing and wallet-watching we’ve had going on the last couple of days … I bet you are getting hungry.
 
I know I am.
 
Many people think a good vacation boils down to one thing-the food-and that your experience with that food can make or break your vacation.
 
While I’m not the kind of traveler to push it that far, I do know people who have all but written off a country because of their cuisine-or in some cases, their coffee … but I digress.
 
Rome doesn’t have issues with food or coffee, so as long as you know where to go,  you’ll be set.
 
La Pietra Scheggiata
 

 
Saturday night our Roman friends invited us to join them for their typical date night dinner in Trastevere, but after 45 minutes of circling the neighborhood in search of the ever-elusive parking place, we settled in Monteverde.
 
We entered the dimly lit La Pietra Scheggiata and were greeted near the door. The owner offered us our choice of tables, while his wife and young son-maybe four!-patiently waited to take our order.
 
With little urging, we each ordered the tortino di spinaci antipasto, made with cheese, spinach, cream and saffron and a large plate of assorted cheese, served with homemade honey and jam for the table.
 

 
The specialty of the house is the cacio e pepe pasta served with thick truffle sauce-my husband and both of our friends ordered that. Being the daredevil I am, and mostly because I wanted to try more than one of their house favorites, I ordered the carbonara, prepared with extra black pepper and topped with the same truffle sauce.
 
Oh. My. God.
 
I’m convinced the Romans were able to control the western world for more than 1,000 years because they mesmerized their enemies with dishes like these.
 
We ended our feast with homemade panna cotta, topped with caramel and chocolate.
 

La Pietra Scheggiata

Via Paola Falconieri

10/16 Roma

+ 39 0653 272058

 
Other places we enjoyed during our visit were
 

 
- Defronte e
 
Just a few blocks from the Spanish Steps, this restaurant is slightly away from the band of tourist restaurants and was one of the places I went with friends a few years ago. It was typically Romano and we loved the fact that the menus were only in Italian (always a good sign, mind you!)
 
This time, the menus were translated into English and it had more of a tourist-spot feel. The prices were still reasonable and the food was delicious but I’m not sure I’d return.
 

 
- Ai Tre Scalini
 
Located in the heart of Monti, Ai Tre Scalini is the wine bar where we met NYC/Caribbean Ragazza. Although we didn’t dine here, the wine, atmosphere and friendly staff had me at “buona sera.”
 

Ai Tre Scalini

Via Panisperna, 251

00184 Roma

+39 0648 907495

 
Have you eaten at a fabulous restaurant in Rome? Where was it? Please share in the comments!
 
 
Photos courtesy of menudiroma and asa-press
 

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Every now and then my molto romantico marito surprises me with a gift that is tailor-made … well, for him. As was the case with my latest surprise-two passes to the Masters Tennis Tournament. The up side? The tournament was in Rome.
 
We compromised on the trip details and decided to close Il Cedro for four days and three nights and head to the city. The Eternal City. In celebration of our fabulous long-weekend his present, I’m sharing the love with you.
 
This week-all week-we’re talking Rome, baby.
 
So get ready. These country mice went to the big city. And we have a lot to tell.
 

Peppe and me in our only couples picture of the weekend

 
Remember that fabulous 50 buck round-trip flight I told you about between Rome and Calabria? Well it is fab, but unfortunately for us, the only day they don’t fly is on Saturdays. So we train’ed it up-six hours is but a snap in time when you’re going to Rome.
 
We arrived around 3:00 on a bright, sunny, warm day and headed straight to the Colosseum, where in honor of the April 25 Festa Della Liberazione, tickets were free.
 

My almost Roman gladiator scaring off the tourists

 
That evening we met some of our Roman friends-one of whom was actually our first long-term B&B guest-for dinner and drinks. In typical Roman style, we didn’t enter the restaurant until after 10:00 PM and were ushered out around 1:00. The pasta was homemade and smothered with pecorino cheese and truffle sauce, the wine was strong, the atmosphere, eclectic. But don’t get me started now … I’ll get into that later in the week.
 
The next morning, these two little country Catholics headed to Saint Peter’s Square and were thrilled to discover the canonization of five saints, along with a Latin language mass, being led by the Pope.
 

See that little yellow dot behind me? Look harder. That’s him!

 
After strolling around all afternoon, visiting the Spanish steps and window-shopping along Via Condotti, we were thirsty. So we met with the well-liked and wildly-respected NYC/Caribbean Ragazza for an aperitivo-where one hour, turned into two, that turned into four.
 

The famous NYC/Caribbean Ragazza and I met for drinks

 
Our final full-day in Rome was dedicated to tennis and if you know anything about the sport, you know the man in the blue hat below is Roger Federer. I didn’t know, but he was quickly pointed out to me by a rush of anxious Italian girls screaming, “Eeey lowve you, Rrroger!” as he welcomed the group in English.
 

Number two in the world, tennis champ, Roger Federer

 
Although our last 18 hours or so in the Eternal City were dampered with dreary rain and almost unbearable humidity, our long weekend was perfect. After all, how many people have the opportunity to spend a few days off in the capital of the Bel Paese-and we weren’t taking that for granted.
 
Have you been to Rome? What would you do if you only had three nights to spend in the Eternal City?
 

 
We’ve all been there. We experience bad service at a hotel and want to rant about it, we are overcharged for fees by a rental car company, an airline loses our bags for two days then half of the contents disappear before they are returned.
 
Oh, that hasn’t happened to you?
 
Well, it happened to me.
 
If you aren’t familiar with the ongoing saga between yours truly and Lufthansa/Air One, then you can catch up here, but please come back.
 
In the six months since this began, I’ve learned a few things about dealing with travel companies. And I am going to share that new-found knowledge with you.
 
Here are four tips to help you get a favorable response from a travel company.
 
Act quickly – Most travel companies expect to hear from complaining customers within a previously specified amount of time. For airlines, you must file a report within seven days of receiving your luggage. If you try to call them on Day 8, they won’t help you. They look for loopholes so they don’t have to refund your money or provide travel vouchers.
 

photo credit: Russ Neumeier

 
Tell them what you want – Don’t be afraid of being seen as an aggressive customer or an unkind person. You need to share your expectations with the company so they will have something to respond to in your complaint. If you send a letter and say, “The ceiling leaked and the staff member on duty wouldn’t move us to another room,” you are just venting. If you expect to be compensated or would like a voucher to return at a later date, say so in the letter.
 
Document everything – Keep all invoices, online communication and airline information, such as boarding passes and luggage receipts. You might be asked to produce documentation proving you took the flight. You don’t want to lose your refund because you cleaned out your purse a day too soon.
 
When you realize you will have to file a complaint, organize all of your documents and make copies. Keep them in folder so you will have quick and easy access.
 

photo credit: bigmick

 
Don’t take “no” for an answer – If your initial request is denied, send a follow-up letter or email asking for a manager. Continue to send a follow-up until you have been contacted by someone with authority. If you feel you are still being treated unfairly, request the help of a travel ombudsman, continue to send appeals to higher company officials or post in online forums or your blog.
 
Remember that fiasco I mentioned above with Lufthansa and Air One? Well, I am happy to report that a couple of weeks after my post, I received an email from a manager at Lufthansa offering to reopen my case. I sent her all of the information and documentation and three weeks later I received a bank transfer for almost $550.00.
 
Two days later, Air One called to see if they could help me settle my complaint. Until this point, Air One had never responded to any of my emails, phone calls, faxes or letters.
 
“How can we help you resolve this?” the lady asked.
 
“It’s been taken care of,” I told her. “Lufthansa paid it.”
 
“Well,” she asked curtly. “Why did you contact Lufthansa after you had already contacted us?”
 
“Because you never responded.”
 
“Yes, well …” she said. “They will send us a notice to pay half.”
 
And she hung up.
 
So, remember. If you find yourself in a similiar situation – Act quickly, Tell them what you want, Document everything and Don’t take “no” for an answer. Good luck!
 
Have you ever been in a similiar situation where things turned out well for you in the end? What do you think helped you reach a positive outcome?
 
Don’t forget to head over to Robin’s and see what she has going on today.
 
Until next time … Buon Viaggio!
 

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What kind of traveler are you? Are you the kind who likes to travel and enjoys the voyage or the kind who would rather skip “getting there” and would prefer to just “be there” already?
 
I pondered this question on my recent day trip to the Amalfi Coast, and along with notes on the Cherrye molester, I wrote the following in my journal.
 

photo credit: basykes

I woke up this morning at 4:30 AM, prepared for my stint along the Amalfi Coast, packed a small day pack, threw on a hat and headed to the train station.
 
“I don’t know how you do it,” my husband told me. “This would not be fun for me.”
 
“What do you mean?” I ask him, shocked at his revelation.
 
“It is going to be so stressful … rushing there, spending all day on the train, worrying about catching the last train back … that is no fun,” he explained.
 
But I beg to differ.
 
The adrenaline rush you feel when the train pulls from the station – the people watching – the children playing – finding ways to occupy your time in between each mountainous seaside city.
 

photo credit: cicatriz_rus

 
I *love* that.
 
My husband *so* does not love that.
 
So it made me think.
 
He loves the scent of a new city, the taste of foreign food and the thrill of a new destination as much as I do, but while he enjoys these experiences once we are there, I embrace the voyage.
 
So what does this mean? Am I more of a traveler because I enjoy the travels? Is he more of a vacation-goer since he relishes the destination?
 
I don’t know the answer, but it’s food for the weary traveler’s thoughts.

And speaking of thoughts … what are yours? Is someone who enjoys the journey more of a traveler than someone who just wants to “be there already?” Or does it really matter, since in the end our travels - while many of us share them with the world – are really just personal explorations of how we see ourselves on the global stage?
 
So more importantly, I’ll ask you. Which kind of traveler are you?
 

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Two weeks ago I set out on a one-day road trip to the Amalfi Coast to join my Mediterranean cruisin’ cousin and her friends.
 
The day started out slowly, with a flood in the southern Calabrian city of Reggio Calabria delaying trains by at least two hours. Determined … I waited. And waited. And waited. And then I went on.
 
I hopped on a bus in Salerno for a 50 minute bus ride up the scenic Amalfi Coast to the namesake town of Amalfi.
 
And that is where my story begins …
 

photo credit: designatednaphour

 
As I boarded the bus I saw an elderly man – knocking on 75, I’d say – shuffling his way towards the bus stop. I had seen him earlier on the train from Calabria and we acknowledged each other and went on our way.
 
He joined me on the bus and asked if he could sit with me. “Sure,” I said, thinking this man, with his wealth of knowledge of Italy’s most beautiful coastline would help me pass the time with stories of the area.
 
A whopping two minutes after the bus departs, I feel a hand on my knee.
 
Hmmm …
 
I brush it off and think it must have been an accident.
 
Plop.
 
There it is again.
 
I rearrange my bags and lean a little closer to the window. At least it was a nice view.
 

photo credit: Darren Donahue

 
He leans in, “I just want to spend a little time with you,” he whispers. “Where are you going?”
 
I tell him my travel plans and end with a remorseful, “So, no. I can’t spend the day with you.”
 
“I have a house here,” he insists. “You can stay with me and I’ll drive you back to Calabria tomorrow.”
 
Wondering if this man is joking, if he has lost his mind, or if I seriously have “I’m a tramp” stamped on my forehead, I politely, yet somewhat more forcefully than last time tell him “No, thanks.”
 
The entire time this conversation is going on, his wiggly fingers are trying to pry themselves beneath the bags I had firmly stationed between us.
 
Wiggle … wiggle … I felt a fingertip.
 
Just then his phone rang and I seized the opportunity to build a wall between us with my book and bags of Calabrian products I was taking to my cousin. I was careful to keep my purse on the other side – lest all this feeling-up was just a ruse to get my wallet.
 
He hung up with his wife – Porco! – and started right back in on the finger crawl.
 
“I’m never gonna win,” I thought to myself. “He’s had 70 years of practice working on women … I’ve only had two!”
 
Finally. After 50 minutes of pushing him off of me, we arrived at his stop. He tried once more, “We are getting off at the next stop,” he said.
 
“We?” I ask suspiciously.
 
“Well, I am. I hope you will get off with me.”
 
“No,” I tell him, without smiling.
 
“Do you need anything?” He insists. “Do you need money?”
 
Gah!
 
Without even trying to convince this old goat that I am not an American prostitute working the costiera, I tell him no and send him on his way.
 
So, can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong? What is it about me that screams – take advantage of me? – to aging Italian men? Has this ever happened to you? How did you or would you handle a situation like this?
 

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photo credit: alex-s

 
It had to happen. I had to write this post. I’ve postponed it for months with the excuse of giving the airlines time to come through, but in the end enough is enough – and you deserve to know this.
 
Regular readers might remember my summer voyage to Texas or might recall some positive things I’ve said about Germany’s largest airline, Lufthansa.
 
Well I take it back.
 
To quickly fill in the details of my plight, I returned to Italy in late July and arrived sans baggage. I filed a report and waited two days to receive my bags. One arrived in tip-top shape with 100% of my belongings – the other was half empty.
 

photo credit: OctopusHat

 
The following day I called Lufthansa, who relinquished responsibility to my final airline carrier, AirOne. Per their online instructions I filed a report with my local Carabinieri. I called AirOne for three consecutive days – no answer. I sent them two faxes – no response.
 

photo credit: jeremyfoo

 
Determined not to let AirOne’s inadequacies cause me $800 worth of increased stress, I sent a letter to Lufthansa. I described the situation and offered to send the police report. I explained how given their tight partnership – AirOne’s planes fly Lufthansa’s logo – and the fact I was refused by a Lufthansa representative the right to cellophane wrap my luggage, that I held them responsible.
 

photo credit: hoyasmeg

 
They emailed me a response that said since I did not report the matter within seven days they could not help me.
 
Hopeful, I replied with, “Actually, I did file within seven days. Where do I send the documents?”
 
When I hadn’t heard a week later, I sent a follow-up.
 
I received another email stating it was not their responsibility since my final carrier was AirOne.
 
I replied asking them why they changed their reason for denying my claim, re-outlined my frustrations with Lufthansa and asked for a manager.
 
When I hadn’t heard nine days later, I sent a follow-up.
 
I received a response from a manager who supported the previous denial of my claim but made note of the fact that “I was unhappy with the Lufthansa representative who refused to wrap my baggage.”
 
At this point, I sent an email to writer and travel expert Christopher Elliot.
 
He contacted Lufthansa on my behalf and was sent a response within the day that said something along the lines of …
 

“Ms. Moore may have contacted her final carrier but we have no record. Her claim is denied because she did not register her complaint in a timely manner… (She) offered no documentation of her claims … We’d be happy to re-review her case again, however at this point it looks like she’s not being upfront with either of us.”

 
An airline company bucking responsibility and forgoing accountability is one thing, but personally attacking the character of a complaining customer is beyond poor service.
 
I emailed them about the personal attack – made to a noted journalist I very much respect and admire, no doubt - and called them on their offer to reopen my case.
 
I never heard back from them.
 
So what do you do? I’ve pledged not to fly either company again – although this will likely force me to travel to other airports for my international travel needs. I’d rather spend the money to get to Naples or Rome and fly with an airline who respects loyal customers and who accepts responsibility when $800 of personal belongings go missing under their watch.
 
Have you ever had a bad experience like this with an airline? If so, which company? Was it resolved? How? What would you do in this situation if you were me?
 
*** All of the red Lufthansa and AirOne links lead to other complaints about the two companies. ***
 
It’s Friday and that means a new recipe from La Buona Cucina Americana team … Thanks, Mary!
 

 
As you are reading this, I am leaving on a jet train and heading north, north, north .. all the way north to the Costiera Amalfitana. And yes. It is still considered the south.
 
A bit far for a day trip, you think?
 
Well, you are right. It is a tad far.
 
I left Catanzaro at 5:45 AM and I’ll be in Salerno sometime around 10:30 where my cousin, her husband and two of their friends will meet me for the day.
 

photo credit: slightlywinded

 
They are cruising the Mediterranean, but the closest they get to Bella Calabria is 5 hours north, so up I go. The original plan was for my husband to go with me and us enjoy a mini-vacay along the most beautiful coastline in the world but our bed and breakfast got booked – fully booked! - for the week and hence, I’m going solo.
 

photo credit: designatednaphour

 
But that is ok. I enjoy traveling alone and I’m looking forward to the hours I can spend reading a book, listening to music, writing in my journal … and just thinking.
 
The Ragazza from NYC/Caribbean/Rome/LA (am I missing something??) sent me a fantastic article with restaurant and bar recommendations – so I won’t go hungry when I’m there.
 

photo credit: designatednaphour

 
So bear with me in responding to comments today and I’ll tell you all about it when I get back.
 
Have you ever been to the Amalfi Coast? Do you think it lives up to its title of “Most Beautiful Coastline in the World?” What other coasts can compare?
 

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Think Asian cultures are the only groups who enjoy fried rice? Think again. Sicilians introduced fried rice balls, or arancini, around the 10th Century and Italians have been gobbling this deep fried goodness ever since.
 

 
Traditional arancini are rice-filled balls stuffed with meat, tomato sauce, green peas and mozzarella. They are rolled in bread crumbs and deep fried to perfection. Hmmm … delizioso!
 

 
Other varieties of arancini include mozzarella-only rice balls, mushroom-filled rice balls and even chocolate-filled balls.
 
* Anyone know the downside to having a husband who cleans and organizes the house? He forgets where he puts your things. My camera battery charger has been MIA since the latest cleaning spree three weeks ago so I can’t offer you a step-by-step guide to making arancini. Luckily, Maryann of Finding la Dolce Vita has already done that.
 
Click here for Maryann’s arancini recipe. Feel free to click through her entire Recipe Box – you won’t be disappointed!
 
I had also planned to highlight the arancino as an “O Foods for Ovarian Cancer Awareness” food item, but that ship has sailed. Instead, I’d like to remind you to check on the Bleeding Espresso and Ms. Adventures in Italy websites for the recipe roundup on Friday, and visit The Leftover Queen for a list of participating blogs.
 

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