I met the group at the airport, along with our handsome guide/interpreter Andrea (who all the ladies tried to squeeze into their luggage for the trip back home) and our sweet but far-from-bilingual driver, Francesco. Somewhat quiet and timid on the ride to the Pollino, the group quickly meshed and by the end of the first night were already holding hands as they hiked to a hidden monastery and were singing, hopping and most-of-all laughing with each other as we danced the Tarantella.

The next few days were filled with a combination of long lunches, free-flowing wine, ruined castles, deep gorges, high peaks, pasta-rolling, cheese and wine-tasting and everywhere we turned, musicians, singers and would-be guides emerged to tell us more about “their” Calabria.

After four nights, we bid a sad farewell to our hosts-with the promise of a quick return-and headed south to Tropea. We stopped enroute so the group could have an upscale lunch of Calabrian seafood and chocolate tartufo and a secret behind-the-scenes visit to a local factory.

From Tropea, we ventured out to a nearby farm and learned the art of baking Calabrian bread and homemade pasta before feasting with the family on homemade *everything* – including, but not limited to, sopressata, ‘nduja, ragù, eggplant, peppers and pies.

We wrapped up our week at the luxurious private villa of one of southern Calabria’s most renowned chefs where we made crespelle (a specialty from my part of the boot) and enjoyed what was likely the most exquisite seafood meal I’ve ever had.

So many times throughout the week I forgot I was working … the group was tremendous and after a few days it didn’t just “feel” like I was with friends-I truly was. I left the tour Sunday with the renewed energy I believe vacations were intended to instill. Tour members kept thanking me, but their comments-such as, “after four trips, this is the first time I’ve seen the ‘real’ Italy, “this is the best vacation I’ve ever had” and the heartfelt “you pulled it off, kid!” are words of thanks I’ll never forget.

Tania and I are incredibly proud of the tour and are thankful to our guests for coming along on the first annual Calabrian Table Tour. We have already had dozens of requests for 2012 and will have our new dates published in the coming weeks. But until then, I’m going to have to find me a treadmill and a new pair of sneakers. Table tourin’ isn’t without its drawbacks. Or should I say, drawstrings. Which are the kind of pants I’ll be wearing if we keep this up.

Until next time … cin cin!

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip.

Intimidating, huh?

As soon as our bambino was home and the doctor approved him for travel, I began planning our first international trip. There were passports to be ordered, flights to book, baby bassinets to be reserved … I wasn’t sure where to start.

I’ve been a frequent international traveler for the last 11 years and am comfortable in most air travel situations. But I gotta tell you, I was scared to death to travel solo with a two month old.

When you are single, you don’t pay much attention to changing tables, strollers or lap seat children (unless they are bawlin’ in your ear on an 8-hour flight) and for the first time in more than a decade, I was worried about flying. So, I did what any good expat mom would do … I emailed my expat mom friends for help.

And mamma mia did they come through!

I’d like to take a moment to give a big shout out to Vanessa and Hilary in Messina and Michelle (Viva la Pappa) and Joanne (Frutto della Passione) in Milan for all of their emails, tips and tricks for traveling with babies.

Here’s a bit of what they told me and a few tips I picked up along the way.

1. Be Prepared!
One thing that all of the expert mom travelers told me was that being prepared would make a world of difference. And it did. Hilary told me to pack easy snacks for myself (since my hands would be full during the trip), Vanessa told me to pack a few extra pairs of baby pants in case he got dirty, Joanne advised me to carry one diaper per hour of the trip (excessive, yes, she said, but better safe than sorry!) and Michelle taught me a neat trick involving a kitchen sponge, dish washing liquid and a Ziploc bag (for on-the-spot cleaning of bottles, pacifiers or other toys.)

They also advised me to give him a pacifier (or something else to suck on) for take-offs and landings. I did-and he traveled like a champ, only crying briefly on the first of six landings.

2. Don’t Expect Help
All of the girls, along with Jen, my Irish expat friend in Catanzaro, warned me not to expect help.

“Allow yourself plenty of time and carry him in whatever is most convenient for you,” they told me.

So I did.

I debated whether I should take his stroller or carry him in a Baby Bjorn and in the end opted to have two free arms. Perhaps it was because my son was *so* young (he was two months old, but because he’d been premature, he only weighed eight pounds), but I was offered help every. step. of the. way. Which brings me to Tip #3 … .

3. Accept Help!
As an independent traveler, your instinct might be to play tough or refuse assistance during your travels, but as a solo-travelin’ mom with baby in tow, I’ll tell you … accept that help.

From before I stepped through security in Lamezia (when a Roman family toted my carry-on and pushed me to the front of the line) to our second flight (from Rome to Frankfurt) when a young American man stopped the flow of passengers and put up my bag to our third flight (Frankfurt to Houston), where the flight attendant carried my bags to the front of the plane … I had help all of the way.

I know I was lucky with the good-natured travelers I met, so I’m sending positive travel karma vibes to them with this post (and urging you all to pay-it-forward, should you see a single traveling parent with a child who might need an extra hand.)

I’m interested to see how traveling with a child will evolve, how things will be different when he is six months, 12 months, 36 months … for I know each age will bring a new set of travel-related issues. But I feel good about it. I trust myself and my new traveling mom instincts and will hope for the best. And let’s face it. Hilary, Vanessa, Michelle, Joanne and Jen all have kids older than mine anyway. So, if I get stuck, I’ll just call for reinforcement and know that no matter how long a flight may seem, that plane will land and we’ll get there … eventually.

What other tips do you have for new moms (and dads) traveling with their babies?

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

If you need a little help narrowing it down, you might want a custom itinerary or some in-depth travel consulting, but if finances don’t allow or you’re one of those travelers who wants to research her own trip, then keep on reading.

As you can imagine, narrowing down my favorite mountain villages to just three was not an easy task. Still, these three made the cut for their authentic feel, cleanliness and friendly locals, so without delay, here are three of my all-time favorite mountain villages in bella Calabria.

Civita (CS)

Civita (pronounced cee-VEE-ta) houses the largest Albanian community in the region. Travelers flock to this pint-sized town for a glimpse of Albanian culture, where locals still speak-and teach to their children through the local school system-their native language and where indigenous costumes and traditions are carried on through festivals and celebrations. In addition to the unique heritage of Civita, the town is also home to the Ragnanello Gorge, the deepest gorge in Europe and the Devil’s Bridge, which is easily seen from the Belvedere lookout point on the edge of town.

Cortale (CS)

Cortale (pronounced CORE tall ee) is a little closer to my adopted hometown of Catanzaro and was one of the first mountain villages I fell in love with when I started visiting the area in the early 2000s.

Home to about 2,000 people, Cortale is large enough to have an active main street and busy piazza, but still offers that small, tight-knit community you’d expect in a Calabrese village.

Several of our B&B guests have had origins in Cortale and like me, they enjoy strolling through the town, breathing the clean, fresh mountain air and visiting the Calabria water source just north of town in nearby Monte Covello.

The village also has some amazing views of the mountains and valleys below …

… and who doesn’t love a good view now and then?
 
San Fili (CS)

I’ve written before about San Fili, (pronounced Sayn FEE Lee) my mother-in-law’s pint-sized village that is located near Cosenza in northern Calabria. In fact, we have a small house there (see “For Sale: San Fili” below), one that sadly is badly in need of repair and thus, limits the time we can spend there.

Still, this village, like Civita and Cortale features that fresh, clean mountain air and offers travelers a glimpse into the traditional Calabrese lifestyle. In addition to the Chiesa Madre church, visitors should plan time to stroll through the main street, have coffee in the main piazza and relax on any of the broad, open terraces that surround the village.

Are you heading to Calabria or southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your itinerary.

Photo: My Bella Vita, My Bella Vita, Panoramio, My Bella Vita

Let’s kick our Southern Italy Snapshots series off today with my home region … bella Calabria, with one beautiful photo representing each of Calabria’s five provinces, Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio Calabria, Crotone and Vibo Valentia.

Are you heading to Calabria? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip with visits to some-or all-of these picturesque places.

Photos: Thumbnail, Borgia Web; other photos Massimo Bottelli, loloieg, Al Lanni, mikuzz and Zurgo all via Flickr

In honor of our 3rd anniversary, I’m going to share some tips that have kept us sane-and happy!-in our travels.

1. Compromise the Planning
It is hard for two independent people who are, ahem, used to calling all of the shots, to learn to compromise their travel plans. I often find myself wanting to squeeze in extra vacation days, especially when we are traveling to Texas to see my family and friends, while my husband tends to worry over the details … you know, like paying for the trip and closing our business.

We’ve gotten really good at understanding each other’s motivations and the last few Christmas trips we took started later than I’d have liked (we didn’t get to Texas until December 22 or 23!) but lasted for more than a month.

2. Help Each Other Prep
Whether they are working to get ahead for their job, planning who will take the pets and get the mail or worrying that everything is in place, most people are ultra busy before a big trip. When you are traveling solo, you have to take care of all of the details. When you are traveling as a couple … yes, you do have some help, but there are also two people, with two sets of “lists” that have to be finished before you leave town.

When we are in the final prep stages before a big trip, my husband and I share our lists, divide them and conquer ‘em. This helps each of us feel like we are getting help, relaxes us before the trip and ensures no one starts our vacation with resentment or hurt feelings.

3. Take it Easy
… on each other, I mean. Yes, traveling is exhilarating, fun and exciting but it is also stressful. Before we set out for an international flight, which when we go to Texas means three flights, two layovers and oftentimes an overnight somewhere, we pledge to have a good attitude and not add unneeded stress to each other. At some point, usually when one of us gets too-easily agitated or moody, this turns into a joke and we laughingly remind the other one that they broke the rule.

This doesn’t work all of the time and no, it doesn’t eliminate travel-related stress, but I think our attitudes are what got us through the DC Blizzard last year with flight delays, an unplanned night near the airport and two new, unexpected flight connections in happy spirits.

What other tips do you have for couples who travel together?

Be sure to check out Robin’s travel tips this week at My Melangè.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: Cecil Lee

This week, I thought I’d elaborate on her post and talk about Calabria travel and specifically who is and who isn’t well-suited for traveling in this particularly untraveled terrain. If you see yourself in the following examples take heed and either consider altering your travel plans or be prepared to cope with some of the more stressful aspects of traveling in Calabria.

1. High-strung Travelers
I love American tourists … I’ve even written a post dedicated to them, remember? However, the tourists I’m referring to are easy going, have a great attitude and are hell-bent on having a good time in southern Italy.

If you are high-strung, have no patience and don’t think closed shops and misprinted hours are part of the Italian charm, then Calabria might be rough on you.

2. Demanding Travelers
If you are a Burger King traveler, you know, used to having it your way and all, Calabria will be frustrating. Don’t expect things to be like they are in your country-or even how they are in Rome, Florence or Venice. This is Old Italy down here and while people might go out of their way to welcome you, they aren’t going to open their shops, skip lunch or reorganize their day just because an American thinks they should.

3. Travelers who See Themselves in Robin’s List
Among other things, Robin lists the lack of English and modern conveniences as reasons people might not want to visit Italy. Multiply her list by a dozen and you’ll know what to expect in Calabria. Outside of a few tourist-heavy spots, I never hear English (in fact, I’ve met a few other expats because we overheard each other speaking English in public) and I’ve had expats from northern cities offer to bring me things they can get up there.

After seeing some of the same mistakes over and over, I wrote a Calabria travel tips e-guide called “Don’t Get Caught with Dirty Drawers.” If you are thinking of visiting Calabria, why not pick up a copy and see if you can handle some of the idiosyncrasies of traveling in Calabria.

As I mentioned, Robin’s already written a bit about this, so why don’t you head over to My Melange and see what she is talking about today.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Continental Airlines has long been my carrier of choice. They were there for my first flight-which I still have the cocktail napkin to prove, carried me safely to and from my local airport in Beaumont, Texas and have allowed me cash in a *free* international flight-when I most needed it-with my frequent flyer miles.

Overall, it’s been a good run.

So …

I was surprised earlier this year when I had trouble booking my nephew’s flight from Texas. No, It wasn’t a simple shop and select purchase. He was flying with me from Texas, then returning to Texas with friends a month later. We’d already purchased our tickets, thus, it looked like poor Cole was an unattended minor, flying solo.

It was a tough booking.

Since you’ve heard tale of lungomare love and bare boobs on the beach, you know we eventually made a purchase, thus ensuring young Cole a summer he’d never forget.

Here’s a quick recap of how that happened.

Sunday, May 2: I looked on Continental.com and found a round-trip ticket for Cole for $850. I tried to purchase the ticket, but since it appeared he was unaccompanied, the system tried to charge me additional fees. I emailed customer service using their online form.

Tuesday, May 4: When I hadn’t received a response from Continental, I rechecked their site, found the price was slightly higher and resent a message via their contact form.

Thursday, May 6: I woke up Thursday morning to an empty Inbox, checked Continental’s website and found that the price for Cole’s ticket had skyrocketed to $3,103.00, plus tax.

I immediately began searching for a “real, live, breathing person” … as I was almost certain that even in the airline industry, they do exist and quickly found that Traveler’s Best Friend, Christopher Elliott, had it covered. I discovered a cheat sheet, of sorts, with a snippet about Continental, some important email addresses and tips on who and how to approach them.

Using all of my freelance writing know-how, I drafted the sweetest, kindest email possible, addressed it to both the Director and Staff VP of Customer Care, told them about my difficulties booking the ticket, how I’d tried to reach them for several days and about the prohibitively-expensive price increase.

I told them I understood how busy they were-they’d just announced the United merger a few days earlier-and stressed how much I enjoyed flying with Continental. I included my OnePass number and confirmation numbers from my previous contact form attempts.

A couple of hours later, I received a response from the Staff VP, indicating he had read my email and telling me a Sr. Customer Service Manager would contact me that day.

That afternoon-Italy time-I received an email from Diane, a customer service manager, saying she’d used my OnePass contact information to reach me and had left a message at my home in Texas. She listed times when she was available and implied we’d be able to resolve the issue.

I immediately returned her call.

She was friendly, understanding and interested in my unique situation … in short, she was everything an airline’s customer service manager should be. She even allowed me a “grace period” to book Cole’s connecting flights (on a different airline) so I could ensure all of our tickets would match up accordingly.

A few days later we booked his flight and a day or two after that, she sent a follow-up message confirming receipt of his e-ticket.

I was impressed.

Lately, air travelers are met with increased fees, decreased services, intolerance, impatience, unkindness … a blatant lack of appreciation. Continental’s actions set the tone for my nephew’s sun-kissed summer and without them, he would have had the same ‘ole southeast Texas experience he’s had every year. So, Diane, Martin and the rest of Continental’s customer service team … thank you.

Or, as Cole would say … grascia mille!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

I’ve listed my general carry-on list before, but here are five tips to help you pack your carry on for an international trip.

1. Use Your Personal Item
With few (new) exceptions, you are allowed to board the plane with one personal item in addition to your carry on bag. Many women carry a purse, some people carry a laptop or briefcase, but whatever you use, make sure it is large enough to allow space for stashing extras like your camera, iPod, makeup or books.

2. … and Then One
Ok, so yes, I’m technically cheating here but how many times have you boarded the plane with your one carry on and personal item and seen people in front of you with a big shopping bag filled with their latest airport purchase? You know it happens … .

So, if I’m borderline on space, I pack my own shopping bag and use it to hold the items I’ll need in-flight, such as iPod, book, magazine, journal and my Ziploc bag of liquids. A bonus here is that I am always prepared when I board and don’t have to go through my zipped carry on to look for my essentials.

3. Use Extra Shoes
Sure, you can pack socks and underwear inside the space of your packed shoes, but you might also be able to squeeze in a hairbrush, PJs … undershirts. If it doesn’t need to be wrinkle-free, roll it up and stuff it inside. That’s just free space waiting to be used.

4. Always Cut
You knew this was coming, didn’t you? The easiest way to pack a carry on only suitcase for an international trip is to eliminate the amount of stuff you pack. Simple, non?

If you are having a hard time with this, then think back to the last two or three trips you took and remove any items you didn’t use. If you didn’t use it last time, you probably wouldn’t use it this time-and you will be thankful for the extra space for souvenirs.

5. Bundle Wrap
If you can’t seem to cut enough from your list, then consider bundle wrapping. There is an actual technique to it, so be sure to click that link and read up on it-and follow the diagrams-if you are interested.

I’ve used a similar technique of wrapping clothes around a main object and had great success, however, nine times out of ten, I’d rather eliminate the item than pack it.

I *never* pack a hairdryer-and with the unfortunate exception of my honeymoon-I’ve never missed it. What one item would you recommend people toss?

I’m sure Robin at My Melange would have something wise to say about this. Be sure to check out some of her travel tips today, too.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Queen of Subtle.

For many kids, spending a month in southern Italy-without their parents-is a summer they’ll never forget. Well, it’s also a summer this auntie won’t forget soon. So far, we’ve talked about falling in love on the lungomare and about meeting a real-life beach bum in Pizzo but today, in our final installment of Auntie Adventures, I have to tell you about the real deal.

Yes, loyal readers, you will notice that is not me in that thumbnail shot above. The lovely lady you see with my nephew’s heart in her teeth works at “The Panino Place,” in Catanzaro Lido and is named Andreea (pronounced “An dray a”-like in Italian, not the American “Ann dree a”).

It was a typical Catanzaresi night like any other-the air was fresh, the lungomare was full of people and Triolo, or “The Panino Place” was as bustling as ever. The smiling Andreea stopped by our table to take our order. Cole plopped his eyes back in his face-a goofy grin taking over the bottom half-and whispered … “e bella.”

We kinda laughed and since my camera was sitting on the table, I said, “Do you want to take a picture with her?”

Excitement, then fear-and I think a little nausea.

“We’ll ask her for you.” We promised.

When Andreea returned, we told her Cole wanted to take a picture with her.

“You’re joking,” she said. “I don’t believe you.”

“It’s true,” I insisted. “Tell her Cole.”

He nodded his little head in rapid-make that, rabid, movements. “Si,” he said. “Si, si.”

And then, something happened that forever changed the way my baby would see Calabria.

She kissed him.

Yes, it was a generous, friendly kiss on the cheek, but to his nine year old heart-and undoubtedly to the ears of his eager friends back home-it was the real deal.

We snapped the photo, she ruffled his hair and went on with her night.

“That was more than I could have ever imagined,” he muttered, as his panino, once fresh and hot, remained untouched on the table, appetite forgotten.

A few days later, we were in the car-me, thinking about the next stop or what to cook for dinner or some other insignificant detail such as that, him, dreaming of Andreea.

“I know what I’m gonna tell my friends when I get home,” he said.

“Oh yea,” I said, pulling myself away from my mental list. “What’s that?”

“I kissed a girl and I liked it.
The taste of her cherry chap stick.
I kissed a girl just to try it.
And she was 20 years old.
It felt so right-it felt so wrong
I think I’m in love tonight.”

I laughed, “Good one!” I said, as I looked back at him.

He was grinning. Wistful. Gazing out the window.

Being the devoted aunt and uncle we are, we visited “The Panino Place” three or four more times over the next 12 days. Each time Andreea greeted him with a big smile, a happy hug and a big ‘ole smack on the cheek. She even wrote him a love letter, in broken English, and presented it to him in front of her colleagues.

He wrote her a song-although she never heard word of it-with a catchy 20s feel, about her name and her eyes.

A week before his departure, we made one more visit and although he held up well during that final goodbye, he fell into Uncle Peppe’s arms just moments away from the pub.

“But I’ll miss her,” he cried to Peppe. “I love her.”

Peppe looked at me, I looked at Cole.

“I know, Cole. But don’t worry. There will be others.” I told him.

“But not like her,” he insisted. “She loved me and I loved her and it will never be like that with anyone else.”

“Waaaaaaa …”

And then, Peppe panicked.

“Don’t cry, baby. It is ok. We’ll come back again before you leave.”

And whaddya know. It worked.

The crying stopped, but he still needed Uncle Peppe to carry him to the gelateria down the street.

“You can walk now, Cole,” Peppe told him. “We’ll come back.”

“I can’t walk,” he said. “I’ve dehydrated myself with my tears.”

And so it was, the unlikely love story of a starry-eyed Texano and a young panino server named Andreea. And I think it’ll last. I now have one new friend on Facebook and Cole is back home, knocking on doors in his gated community in Wildwood, Texas, asking friends and neighbors for odd-jobs and extra work to save up for his big return to bella Calabria.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

This post is written on behalf of AffordableCallingCards.net, the site that sells-you guessed it-Affordable Calling Cards to Italy. Click here to read other posts written by expats in Italy and Switzerland from in the ACC community.

If your luggage is still weighing in at the 50lb line, listen up. Here are five reasons you should switch to carry-on only for your next trip.

1. Ease of Packing
The packing process is tedious and draining for many travelers, especially if they are packing two or three bags. When you travel carry-on only, you have less clothes, less products (since at the time of writing, you still can’t carry more than three ounce-sized liquids) and less stuff to worry about packing.

Yes, you have to be smart and you might have to remove some items if you see they are too bulky, but after a few trips, packing your carry-on will become easier and you will drastically reduce your packing time.

* It is also important to note that when you travel with a carry-on only, your return packing time is reduced. Last week I traveled to London with friends who, bless their hearts, are some of the heaviest packers I’ve ever met. It took me 10 minutes to pack the night before we left-it took them hours.

2. Look Travel Smart
I know this makes me sound like a travel snob-and I hate that, I really do, but when you are dragging around two or three bulky, over-sized suitcases, falling over yourself when one of them twists and holding up lines on buses and trains … you look like an amateur traveler.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit I look like that when I return from my US vacations, but a girl’s gotta have what a girl’s gotta have-right? when I travel for leisure, however-whether it is a weekend, two weeks or a month-I pack carry-on only. A good place to buy hand luggage bags is Antler.co.uk.

3. Late(r) Check-In
On that same London trip, I accidentally found myself arriving at the airport 45 minutes before my scheduled departure. Since I’d checked in online, I was able to proceed directly to security after getting my boarding pass and made it to my gate with minutes to spare.

4. First One Out
There is something fun and freeing about getting off of the plane and rushing right past that still-empty, non-revolving claim that has captured your fellow travelers. Seriously, if for no other reason than this-pack carry-on only next time. It is exhilarating.

5. Easy Clean Up
If there is anything travelers hate more than packing-it is unpacking, but when you travel with just your carry-on, unpacking is a piece of pie. Last weekend I unpacked my bag, had everything put up and reset for the next trip in less than ten minutes. Who wouldn’t love that?

Ok, it’s confession time. Do you travel carry-on only? If so, what other reasons would you give travelers for making the switch?

Speaking of carry-on crazed travelers, don’t forget to visit Robin at My Melange and check out some of her travel tips for visiting Italy and France.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photos: allaboutgeorge and thbl via Flickr.

More and more people are choosing to travel to Calabria, which is a good thing for those of us in the tourism industry. They read our sites, maybe book a room at our B&B … they might even buy the eguide full of Calabria travel tips … then, they ignore us.

Sadly, this summer, my husband and I have seen couple after couple come through Catanzaro, visit our B&B, then ruin their vacation.

How? They refused to rent a car.

Many of these couples emailed and asked about transportation options before they arrived-and every single time, we recommended they rent a car. Yet, they arrived, bright-eyed and ready for their Calabrian adventures without a rental.

It was heartbreaking.

Why? Because you won’t see the best of Calabria without a car.

Lest you think I’m lying, let me repeat.

You won’t see the best of Calabria without a car.

This is one of the main tips in my ebook, I stress this point to all of my travel consulting clients and mentioned it in my interview with the Eye on Italy Podcast team. This sentiment was even echoed by my fellow expat-in-Calabria blogger, Michelle in her interview with About.com … and for the record, I mentioned it there, too.

The thing is, I understand why some people are wary of driving in southern Italy. They’ve heard of high-winding roads and fast-driving Italians, Carabinieri stops and traffic jams, illegible traffic signs and frustrating road construction.

But let me tell you. Nothing is as frustrating as finally arriving in bella Calabria, then being imprisoned inside your B&B or being limited to a five-block neighborhood for entertainment and meals.

In fact, we’ve seen this happen so many times that we are considering not taking reservations for people who don’t rent a car. Sound tough?

Maybe.

But we take a personal interest in guests who visit our B&B and when they aren’t having a good time, we know it-and we know that taints their judgment and their opinion of Calabria and our bed and breakfast.

When you are in Calabria, you’ll want to be free to explore the ruins near Roccelletta, visit the medieval towns of Gerace and Stilo, take a self-guided tour of Le Castella. All of these things would be hard, if not impossible, to do without the freedom of a rental car.

So, please. If you are traveling to Calabria and don’t want to risk ruining your trip, listen to this.

Rent a car.

Oh, please. Rent a car.

I’m curious what people in other parts of Italy think about car rental vs. public transport. Weigh in, won’t you?

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: Global Jet via Flickr

You see, I’m convinced there really is something to that Aria Calabra that changes a once innocent, well-meaning, pooch-petting boy into a hormone-ranging mostro.

And it all started in Pizzo.

Auntie Adventures: Italian Beach Bums

Pizzo is one of my favorite little villages in Calabria and since it is only 45-minutes or so from Catanzaro, it made for a sensible day trip. We headed out-on the train … more on that later-to check out the Murat Castle, go swimming in the Tyhennian Sea and taste-test tartufo in Pizzo’s main piazza.

And all went according to plan.

We toured the castle, I forced a picture of Cole and a statue, we had tartufo.

Then we went to the beach. In fact, we found an ideal cove of tan sand and rocks, just large enough for a few people and their beach towels, and plopped down to enjoy a few hours of private beach bummin’,

The boys had a great time and just before I called “time’s up,” they swam around the big boulder to my right-to another hidden bay of private beach bliss and had the surprise of their young lives.

A topless sunbather.

I looked up and saw Cole, stumbling towards me in a drunken stupor, wide eyes, goofy grin.

“Cici!” He said. (See, he is still a kid-he calls me by a special name.) “You’ll never guess what we saw. A woman without her bra!”

I jumped up. “Ok, boys. Time to go. We’ll miss the train … Come on. Andiamo!”

They reluctantly joined me and immediately started sizing her up.

“They were so big,” Cole said. “I gotta call Uncle Peppe!”

“They weren’t that big,” the older and wiser 14 year old, Jake told him. “She was probably a ‘C’.”

“They were big,” Cole insisted. “And there were like, nipples or something.”

“Enough, boys! Basta.” I had to stop it. I flashed back to October 17, 2000-just seconds after he was born-it was too soon to be hearing about nipples.

We hopped on the train and an hour or so later we were back in Catanzaro-the boys wearing a bit more pride on their upturned chests, Cole, with a glimmer of knowledge that shouldn’t be there, shining in his deep green eyes and me, with all of the stress and worry of an aunt who’d just allowed her sister’s nine year old child to grow up a bit too soon.

But all’s well that ends well. My sister laughed and forgave me, Cole thinks I’m the coolest aunt in the country and I’ve learned there is a lot more to beach bums than should ever meet the eye.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

My friend Lisa over at Wanderlust Women’s Travel Dreams urged me to share some of my Auntie Adventures with you on the blog, so with Lisa’s urging and my sister’s insistence for details of our day-to-day activities, I’ve decided to chronicle some of our adventures here.

Boardwalk Surprises

Our first adventure takes place on a Sunday evening on the Catanzaro Lido lungomare. We have plans-the two boys, my husband and I-to meet up with friends for pizza, gelato and a night of people-watching on the lungmare.

Like many other seaside towns in Italy, Catanzaro Lido’s lungomare is bursting with people of all ages, walking their dogs, meeting their friends, gathering to play in the arcade or just checking out who on the lungomare is checking them out.

As we parked our car into one of too-tight spaces we’d managed to wrangle, our friends call and tell us they’ll be an hour late.

“No problem,” we thought. “We’ll just hang out here with the boys.”

As we were approaching the beach, a middle-aged man with a beagle passes us.

“Look!” Cole said. “A doggie! How do you say, ‘Can I pet your dog in Italian?’”

Knowing “accarezzare” would be too difficult for him to remember in Italian, we told him to just point to the dog and say “Posso?”

And so he did. (Except he said “Cosso?” and the guy had a hard time figuring out what this nine year old American kid was trying to tell him about his pooch.)

My husband came to the rescue, corrected Cole’s pronunciation and on we went.

However, anyone with kids will know that if you do something once, you’re going to get asked again. And again. And yet again.

Not content sitting on the lungomare waiting for dog-walkers to approach us, Cole began stalking them -searching for them, chasing them down the boardwalk, dashing to get ahead of them so he could accidentally bump into them in passing.

“Posso?”

They were all charmed and every one of those Calabrians freely offered up their pooch for his petting.

A few minutes before our friends scheduled arrival, we grabbed a seat on one of the orange-slice benches that faces the Ionian.

“Cole,” I told him, trying to give the dogs and their owners a piccolo break. “Most people don’t come to the lungomare to look at pets. They come to look at girls like the one your Uncle Peppe is pretending not to look at now.”

“Oh yea,” his face lit up. “Like her.”

I followed his gaze and it was, indeed, the same leggy blond Uncle Peppe was pretending he hadn’t seen.

“Yes,” I told him. “Like her.”

He glanced around the lungomare and as our friends arrived we began our stroll towards the pizzeria. The previous conversation forgotten by everyone but Cole, he blurted out, “That one! That’s the one I like.”

We looked over to a 30something blond, with a turquoise blue tank and tight blue jeans (“And black boots,” says Cole, as he reads this over my shoulder, “Don’t forget her black boots!”)

A pretty girl woman, indeed.

Everyone laughed at his choice and we continued on our way.

Ten minutes later, we enter the pizzeria and who do we see sitting at the bar? Blue Tank Top, herself.

A quick restroom break, hand-wash and scan around the pizzeria later (since he now knows that is what expected of men in Calabria), Cole and Uncle Peppe pass the bar.

To everyone’s surprise-and to Uncle Peppe’s astonishment, embarrassment, discomfort-Cole walks past Blue Tank Top, turns to look at her and her brunette friend and says, “Ciao bella!”

The table bursts into laughter and shy Uncle Peppe crawls into the hole he mentally blazed into the floor.

It is soon over, though.

Blue Tank Top leaves the pizzeria with her stack of to-go boxes and bag of arancini and walks my nephew’s nine-year-old heart out the door.

But all is well. In just a few days he’ll go to Pizzo and there will be another-albeit just as unattainable surprise waiting for him there.

Traveling south? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Yes, the world had already been introduced to Yahoo IM and AOL … I even had a Windows Live Messenger account, but I knew it wasn’t enough.

New expats now have Skype and can video and voice chat computer-to-computer for hours without getting into debt. But that doesn’t work for everyone.

My family is from a small town in the Big Thicket, where high speed wireless is just being introduced. Sure, they could use an Internet key, but for people who are at work as much as they are home, it was a hassle they weren’t ready to face.

Additionally, I wanted to be able to call my mom at work … where she can’t Skype, have long chats with my Skype-free grandparents and be able to call cousins, aunts, uncles and friends when I wanted.

Like I did in the US.

And I dreaded my international move because of this.

Luckily for me, the powers that be at Telecom Italia understood my dilemma and stepped in-just in the nick of time-to help.

For €10 a month, Telecom customers can sign up for Teleconomy Internazionale, the calling plan that lets you call unlimited minutes to landlines in the United States and to countries throughout Western Europe.

And it has been a lifesaver.

Of course, that calling plan will be used a little bit differently for the next five weeks. From today through the end of June I’ll be in Texas, speaking face-to-face with my family and Texas-based friends and it will be my dear ‘ole husband-stranded in southern Italy, diligently working at our bed and breakfast-who’ll be making those calls.

Regular readers will notice my posting schedule has been a little different this month. I’ll continue to post a few times a week and will post new Travel Tip Tuesday updates twice a month throughout the summer.

Why the whole summer, you ask?

Well, because I’m not coming back empty-handed.

In July, Il Cedro B&B will have two new employees … my nine year old nephew, Cole and my friend’s 14 year old son, Jake. I know the boys are anxious to get to Calabria and are ready, no doubt, to iron sheets, scrub bathtubs and serve hot coffee to go to the beaches. And well, I can’t let them down, now can I?

Have a great June and I’ll see you when I get back!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan your trip to Calabria or southern Italy.

Photo: gstene

Every time I go to Texas I get hit with questions about Twitter. Most of my corporate friends don’t get it and they think it is just another social media outlet for people to tell the world up-to-the-minute details of their ever-changing lives. And well, some people probably do use Twitter for such communications.

However, savvy travelers know better.

Personally, I’ve used Twitter to get restaurant recommendations on the Amalfi Coast, to gather information on hotels in Rome and even to communicate with staff members at an airline. In fact, I love Twitter-I only wish I could find more time to manage my lists and participate in the #travel and #italy communities.

Not sure what all of that is about?

Well never fear.

Christine Gilbert, author of Almost Fearless recently published her first ebook, Twitter for Travelers. It is 49 pages of tips for finding travel experts, asking the right questions and cultivating your Twitter karma.

If you don’t know Christine-you should. She took the giant leap womankind has been dreaming of when she left her corporate job in the summer of 2008 and began traveling the world with her husband. Her website is devoted to helping others become the digital nomad she is today.

Christine’s second ebook 30 Ways in 30 Days to Redesign Your Life and Travel the World is available and is-get this!-free. At least for now.

Head over to Christine’s place, grab her RSS-that is RSS, down boys-and you’ll receive a link to download the book.

If you are considering using Twitter for your Italy travel plans, then you are in luck. Here are 25 (and counting!) of my favorite Italy Twits, in no particular order!

Italylogue

MichelleFabio

MyMelange

RomePhotoBlog

FlipFlorence

DierdreS

CalabriaMia

NewsFromItaly

AKNickerson

Calabrisella

DivinaCucina

InItalyTours

CiaoAmalfi

DreamofItaly

Amalari

LivingVenice

WhenInRomeTours

TasteOfItaly

CaribRagazza

KatieParla

BellissimaTina

BellaVentura

ItalyTutto

ExpatCoachMegan

MentalMosaic

Italofile

MissExpatria

Modicana

Oh and you can follow me at mybellavita.

What Italy travel Twittin’ gurus did I leave off of my list? I know I missed some great ones! Please add them in the comments (there is a bonus if you do …)

Don’t forget to see what travel tips Robin has for you today.

Speaking of Robin and bonuses …

Today’s My Bella Vita relaunch prize of the day is brought to you directly from Robin of My Mélange who is offering one lucky My Bella Vita reader an 8X10 frame-able photo of their choice.

There are three ways to win.

1. If you are on Twitter, all you have to do is “Tweet” this post using the green Retweet button above. I’ll see the tweet via the automated @mybellavita inclusion and you’ll be entered into today’s drawing.

2. If you also post it on Facebook (and tell me so in the comments) you’ll receive an additional entry.

3. List another Italy twitterer (one not mentioned above) in the comments, and you will receive a third entry.

This contest will run through Sunday, December 13 at midnight, Italy time. So get to twittin’ and don’t forget to enter to win a premium subscription to ItalianPod101 while you are at it!

If you can’t wait until Sunday to grab some of Robin’s photos, then head on over now. She is offering *free* shipping on the image of the week.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

American tourists often get a bad rap. We are stereotyped as being loud, single-language slobs who are demanding, obnoxious and egocentric.

And sometimes they are right.

For a long time I’ve wanted to write a post about American tourists in Calabria and how 95% of the time, they bust that stereotype wide open. Then, a group of Americans will visit us who fit that mold and make me rethink the idea of the great American traveler.

After two years of running our B&B in Calabria, both my Italian husband and I think American guests rock. In general, they are most respectful, the most gracious and the most grateful guests who pass through our doors-and we love them.

In honor of Thanksgiving week, I present to you my non-ode-because I can’t write poetry-to American Tourists. Here are 10 reasons why we love you, American Tourists in Calabria.

We love you for …

- the nervous emails you send while planning your trip

- how we often feel like we know you, before you’ve ever stepped foot in the bel paese

- how you offer to bring little reminders of home, whether it is a new coffee press, Ziploc bags or English-language books

- the glimmer in your eye as you explore Calabria

- the excitement that radiates from you as you tell us about your journey

- how you marvel at every little thing you see and think each place you visit is better than the last

- how you aren’t afraid to try new things or eat unidentified dishes

- appreciating the locals and respecting their way of life

- respecting us, our bed and breakfast and the other guests you meet here

But most of all, American Tourists, we love you for loving Calabria, for appreciating her rugged beauty and timeless charm and for leaving us like you found us. We are just a little bit better off for having met you.

Happy Thanksgiving Week!

I know, I know … it seems too early to think about Holiday gifts but I’m sure everywhere you look there are Christmas trees and nativity scenes, or maybe that is just here in Italy? They get ready for Christmas so early here, it is like Thanksgiving doesn’t even exist. It is like, they have skipped it entirely.

The truth of the matter is, it isn’t too early to be thinking about that perfect gift. Christmas is just six weeks away-six weeks!-and while I can’t speak for the travelers in your life, I can offer these five ideas to get you going.

photo credit: alancleaver_2000

1. Travel Gift Certificates

Frequent travelers love nothing more than traveling and when it is on somebody else’s dime, well that is the equivalent to having our own little private island holiday wrapped in bacon.

You know what I mean.

If your favorite traveler likes to cruise, check out Cruise Brothers, or consider Bed and Breakfast.com or CityPass for frequent domestic travelers.

2. Lightweight Luggage Scale

I wrote about the Travelon luggage scale last year, but I love this baby so much it is worth the repeat. This is an ideal stocking stuffer or inexpensive gift that I guarantee the traveler in your life will love, especially as airlines increase their Scrooge-like policies on luggage weight and carry-ons.

3. In-Flight Comfort

Speaking of Mr. Airline Scrooge, many of them now charge for blankets and since you don’t want your favorite traveler shivering-or sniffling from using a germ-infected blanket-why not hook them up with one. While you are at it, go ahead and think about other comfort items such as neck pillows, a lumbar pillow or ear plugs. Word to the wise: Be careful of choosing products that are too heavy or bulky for your traveler to take with them.

4. Books, Books, Books

Ok, this seems to be in direct contradiction to what I said above about weight, but if the traveler on your list is about to visit a new destination, why not get them a book set in that location? If your traveler is heading to southern Italy, for example, try In Etna’s Shadow by Karen Landes or My Cousin the Saint by Justin Catanoso. Also keep in mind that while hard cover books make nicer gifts, paperbacks are a traveler’s best friend.

5. Memories

Whether you are buying for a full-fledged travel writer-in which case, check out this list at Travel Writer’s Exchange-or a traveler who likes to document his voyages, notebooks, journals, pens and memory cards are always a good bet!

What other gift ideas do you have for frequent travelers?

I wonder what Robin has going on today at My Melange.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

* The Amazon links are affiliate links.

Little old men in southern Italy have been making homemade wines since they could walk, unfortunately, after taste-testing the different kinds of homemade wine … you can’t walk.

And that is pretty much where I was a few weeks ago when I agreed to go on an interpreting trip to Basilicata to help some fellow Calabrians communicate with long-lost American relatives.

Nice picture, eh?

Well, see that little ole man standing on the right? Let’s just say Ernest and Julio should have outsourced to Potenza, because this signore here has acres after acres of fresh grapes, sprouting on the vine, anxious to pop and share their wine-making juices with the world.

Since I was a special guest , he gave me one of his handmade baskets and let me fill it to the brim with fresh grapes.

Oh yea … those baskets are handmade. You have to be resourceful when you make this much wine.

Apparently, he used to sell most of it, but today, it is just a labor of love for him, his wife of 62 years and his children, grandchildren and special friends.

I like most homemade wines and love when the vino novello comes out each fall. What about you? Do you like homemade wines or are you more of the older-is-better type of wine connoisseur?

Like many travelers, I agonize over finding the perfect hotel-the ideal resting spot that strikes the balance between making me feel at home … and making me feel pampered.

And friends, I’ve found my home away home … in Rome.

My husband and I first met Paola, the perky, bright-eyed owner of Roma Axa 27 on that fateful February night when we rushed from our home in Catanzaro to join my family in Texas.

Not only did she open her home to us, but she welcomed us with open arms-and an open heart-and I’ll always be thankful for her graciousness.

In the last seven months, I’ve visited Paola and Roma Axa 27 on several more occasions-in fact, when traveling to or through the Rome airport, I wouldn’t stay anywhere else.

This B&B is everything a small, family-run hotel should be-it is spotlessly clean, the owner is generous and friendly and the extras-such as complimentary in-room bottled water, tea and crackers make it the perfect place to stop-over when traveling through Rome.

Both of the rooms have a private bath-one with en-suite bath-and transfers to and from the airport are included in the price-which ranges from €35-€40 per person.

There is a piazza located about 300 meters from Roma Axa 27, where travelers can venture to the heart of Rome via a 30-minute bus ride or choose to shop, have dinner or enjoy an evening passeggiata.

You can read more about Roma Axa 27 at RomeAirportAccommodations.com. To make a reservation or to check availability, email Paola at roma.axa.27 (at) gmail (dot) com or call (39) 340 3586057.

Be sure to tell her Cherrye sent you!

Happy Labor Day everyone and a very Happy Birthday to my little sister who is set to enjoy the last year in her current decade! Auguri, Charlee.

 
Welcome to the 2nd edition of “The Life of a Saint.” This week we’re honoring, Saint Nuno Álvares Pereira, the Portuguese saint who-although his followers had to travel more than 2,000 kilometers-had the loudest, if not the largest, cheering section at the Canonization.
 

 
This group was fascinating. They cheered and chanted and sang songs whose words were incomprehensible, but whose love and devotion to their hometown Saint illuminated the square.
 
Truth be known … I was a little jealous. I wanted to feign Portuguese, hop in the circle and join in with their singing and dancing … but my husband held me back.
 
So who was this saint they were cheering for? None other than Saint Nuno Álvares Pereira, also called Saint Nuno of Santa Maria, the 14th century general who helped Portugal secure independence from Castile.
 

 
Saint Nuno descended from Portuguese nobility and had-get this!-32 siblings. He married at 17 and had one daughter but was later widowed. He is described as a war hero and a knight  although he was often referred to as “the Peacemaker.” After his daughter married, he renounced his nobility and gave one-third of his wealth to the poor. He later relinquished all of his money and entered the monestary he had established.
 
At one point he was so famished, he traded his horse for six loaves of bread, then gave them to hungry English knights who were searching for food. But his blood line and sacrifice weren’t in vain.
 
According to BlessedNuno.Org,
 

“His direct descendants included Isabella the Catholic, supporter of Christopher Columbus, Emperor Charles V, who ruled over more territory than any other European monarch (including most of the Americans), and Archduke Ferdinand, whose death triggered the World War which was tearing Europe apart at the time of Our Lady’s Fatima apparitions.
 
Also descended from Blessed Nuno were the members of the Royal House of Braganca, monarchs of Portugal and Brazil, including England’s Queen Catherine, for whom the Borough of Queens, New York was named.”

 
November 6 was established as the Saint Day to celebrate Saint Nuno, although many people still recognize his life on the anniversary of his death which is April 1.
 
Did you miss last week’s “The Life of a Saint?” If so, click here to read about Saint Geltrude “Caterina” Comensoli or click here to read about Calabria’s own, Saint Gaetano Catanoso.
 
Happy Love Thursday!