Travel Tip Tuesday: Three Things You Should Know Before Visiting Southern Italy

Posted on: Mar 9, 2010

Southern Italy has it all. There are ancient Medieval towns, peaceful fishermen villages, stretching beaches and swooping mountains. There are even Roman and Greek ruins. We learned about some of the most famous places in southern Italy as children and some of us grew up dreaming of the day we’d visit our grandparents’ homeland. But that doesn’t mean we know it all.

My then-boyfriend/now-husband grew up here in southern Italy and I was still surprised at some of the assumptions I made that were downright wrong!

With that in mind, here are three things I wish I’d known before I traveled to southern Italy.

(c) Leanne (pictured above) of From Australia to Italy

1. It Gets Brrr … Cold

Calabria has this fabulous reputation of being a hot, steamy, tropical getaway for northern Italians and other Europeans. Unfortunately, it’s crap. It gets downright cold here in southern Italy and depending on when and where you visit, you might see a lot of snow.

It’s true. Laura at Ciao Amalfi! recently posted some videos of a thunder snowstorm on the Amalfi Coast and Leanne of From Australia to Italy was recently snowed in near Cosenza (Calabria.)

2. All Restaurants/Trattorie/Pizzerie Were Created Equally

Regardless of what you may have heard, you *can* get a bad meal in southern Italy. I know. I’ve done it. Still, it is surprising to me when I hear people proclaim sweeping generalizations like, “It doesn’t matter where you eat-you are in Italy,” or “You can’t get a bad meal there!”

Trust me. You can.

If you are traveling to southern Italy and don’t want to be victim to an overcooked pizza or tasteless ragu, then search the Internet for recommendations made by locals or consider hiring a travel consultant who can help with the details.

3. Don’t Assume Anything

Seriously.

Anything.

For example, many restaurants in the US offer free soda refills, in Italy, you will pay full price. Also, don’t assume that just because opening hours are posted on a museum’s website that they are correct, or that the museum is even open. Oh yea, and don’t assume that your hotel will have washcloths. In fact, they probably won’t. Italians don’t use them.

What other things do you wish you’d have known before you visited Italy?

Don’t forget to check out Robin’s travel tips today at My Melange.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Traveling to southern Italy? Click here to see how I can help you plan the trip of a lifetime.

Travel Tip Tuesday: How Not to Look Like a Tourist in Southern Italy … for Men

Posted on: Feb 23, 2010

A few days ago I received an email from a guy who is planning his first trip to southern Italy. He’ll be visiting his grandfather’s homeland in Calabria-just about 50 minutes north of me in Catanzaro-and like any would-be international traveler worth his passport, he’s researching the area.

He bought my Calabria travel tips ebook-thanks, Robert!-and browsed through the travel tips and Calabria travel sections on this site.

But he still had a problem.

“I saw your post on How Not to Look Like a Tourist in Southern Italy,” he told me, “but that seemed more geared towards women. Do you have some tips for guys? I get the sense my Pittsburgh Steelers t-shirts won’t be a good choice!”

Well, Robert. You are right. I’d leave the Steelers t-shirt out of my bag. Of course, I’m a Cowboys fan, so I’d leave the Steelers out of any bag, for any trip, regardless of the destination, culture or climate.

But maybe that’s just me …

With that in mind, here are three more travel tips for men traveling to southern Italy.


1. Follow Robert’s Rules

and by that, I mean the Robert who mentioned the sports shirt. He was right on target with that idea, but in addition to ditching American sports paraphernalia, you guys should also leave out graphic t-shirts that talk about how much beer you can drink, when you went to Hard Rock Cafe and why or why not you voted for “the other guy.”

And really, nobody cares if you are with “stupid,” or if she’s with you.

2. What’s Good for the Goose

also goes for her well-dressed gander. Even though the post about dressing in southern Italy seemed like it targeted women, many of the tips apply to men. They still dress in season-translation: no shorts in winter months, carry bags instead of backpacks and are pretty big on designer sunglasses.

Men in Italy take pride in being well-dressed and rarely go out in slouchy sweats.

3. Think Solid Colors (and long pants)

I knew a guy who came to southern Italy last year who was hell bent on fitting in with the locals. The problem? “I’m American,” was stamped on his forehead (and no amount of over-the-counter bronzers or hours basking in the Calabrian sun would fade it).

Personally, I think that is ok. I love American tourists, remember?

But if you really want to look the part, wear long pants, dark-colored jeans and solid colored t-shirts or polos. (Please forgo the red and purple pants, even they can’t pull them off all of the time!) Add dark socks and dark shoes and you’ll be on the right path to southern Italian style.

What other tips do you have for men who want to blend in with the locals in Italy?

Be sure to check out Robin’s travel tips today.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Travel Tip Tuesday: Calabria in the Winter-Five Things to Pack

Posted on: Jan 26, 2010

Although most people consider Calabria a warm-weather destination, the lakes, mountains, ruins and medieval villages are actually year-round attractions. In fact, many people travel to Calabria in the winter months to meet their long-lost relatives or to save money on low-season flights and accommodations.

While it is true you won’t need to pack your summer trunks and tiny two-piece the following five things could make the difference between your trip-of-a-lifetime and that miserably cold Calabrian vacation you took one year.

Remember, layering is the key to successful winter dressing in Calabria-think long-sleeve t-shirts, sweaters and vests. And just to get you started on your list, here are five things you should always pack for a Calabria vacation in the winter.

A Quick Shot of Clarice
photo credit: Maxwell GS

1. Good, warm boots

Despite what you’ll read in some guide books, Calabria is down-right cold in the winter, and you will need a good pair of warm boots. It is likely your journey will entail walking through cobble-stone streets, trekking up steep hills and sloshing through muddy, wet ground.

Carry (or wear) a good pair of warm boots. Your feet will be grateful.

2. Wool socks

Speaking of thankful tootsies, wrap those bad boys up in some wool socks. Be sure to carry an extra pair (or some furry warm slippers) to wear at night. There isn’t a lot of carpet in Calabria and the marble floors are C-O-L-D. If you are planning an extended stay in Calabria, plan to hand-wash your socks every few days and hang them to dry.

3. Umbrella

Sadly, sunny Calabria turns wet in the winter, so be sure to pack a small umbrella or raincoat you can carry with you on your excursions. This is especially important if you are traveling to less-touristy destinations where shop-keepers won’t run outside to sell umbrellas at the first site of rain.

4. Sunglasses

Contradictory to #3?

You might think so, but the sun often precedes (or follows) the rain in Calabria, so make like a Boy Scout and be prepared.

5. Scarves, hats, gloves

These accessories will diversify your winter wardrobe and keep you warm as you scout out family ancestors and explore Calabria’s castles. Additionally, Catanzaro, Calabria’s capital city, is known for its fierce wind. These accessories will protect you for the elements.

What else do you suggest people pack for winter vacations to southern Italy?

Hop on over to Robin’s and see what travel tips she is offering today.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Three Best-Kept Travel Secrets in Calabria

Posted on: Jan 25, 2010

A couple of months ago Katie at TripBase started a Three Best-Kept Travel Secrets meme and it’s been floating around the blogosphere since then. Robin of My Melange tagged me and well, since I love talking about Calabria so dang much, I thought I’d give it a go.

Calabria is, herself, a well-known travel secret, virtually unknown on the international stage and enjoyed mostly by northern Italians, Germans and Calabrian descendants returning to the land of their grandfathers’ births.

Even Calabrian hotspots Tropea, Sila and Reggio’s touristy status is relative. Our coasts are lined with travel secrets that are buried in caves, hiding in medieval villages and peaking out of hidden nooks.

But still … I have my favorites.

Paola


(c) WindowWeb

Paola is home to Calabria’s patron saint, San Francesco di Paola (Saint Francis of Paola) who founded the Minimi Order in the Roman Catholic Church in the 1400s. For years the village has been a main stop for religious trekkers, who flock to Paola to visit Saint Francis’ birthplace, the monastery and any of the dozens of churches and chiesettas, but this little village really does have it all. In addition to its established place in Calabria’s religious past, Paola has clean, rocky beaches, a Norman castle, fountains and a clock tower.

Pietragrande and Caminia

Ok, so regular readers have heard of Pietragrande and Caminia-and yes, I am kinda cheating here by including them both- but these beaches rival any I’ve seen in the bel paese and thus … are worth mentioning again.

Pietragrande and Caminia are located about 15 minutes from Catanzaro Lido and overlook the Ionian Sea on the Gulf of Squillace. They feature dramatic cliffs and warm blue-green waters that kiss the numerous caves and grottos that dot their coasts. The lack of restaurant options near the beaches adds to their charm and makes visitors feel like they’ve discovered a private slice of Mediterranean. In the summer months, the beaches are filled with locals and nightclubs are open on both beaches.

Amantea


(c) Salpe

Any town whose name derives from the Greek word “lover,” can’t be too shabby, and Amantea, located in the province of Cosenza, certainly lives up to its name. In addition to its glistening Tyrrhenian Sea beaches and caves, Amantea’s imposing fortress, an ancient Byzantine castle and nearby monastery are worth a visit.

Since many of the travel bloggers I know have already been tagged, I’m going to put this back on you. What is your favorite “secret” place in southern Italy? You can either leave it in the comments or write a post about it and let me know!

Customized Calabria Itineraries and Travel Planning

Posted on: Dec 7, 2009

Whoa. Stop right there. Don’t hit that back button or double-check the url.

You are in the right place.

Welcome, friends and blog readers to the new My Bella Vita.

It has been a long road, through logo design, color choices, font options, column width and header size and seriously, it is enough to make a girl wrap herself into a fetal position and moan html, html, html until someone snaps her glazed-over eyes into focus and forces her up again.

I mean, I’m just saying … I didn’t do that. Well, maybe once.

But in the end my friends at Kaiz Agency came through and designed a new template we feel will highlight some of the changes we have in store for this website.

Oh yes, my friends … there are changes.

In addition to the funky new logo and what will soon be a photo slide show-small technical delay, slide show’s a comin’, few tweaks, no worries-I’m expanding products and services offered here.

Ancient Scolacium at Roccelletta, Calabria near Catanzaro

Custom Itineraries

We all know Calabria can be intimidating and a well-traveled Italophile once said, “Calabria is not for the faint-hearted.” But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t come. Calabria has beaches, mountains, ruins and religion, a unique cuisine, good wine and warm people and it is listed as an “Italian favorite” for many people who have visited.

But it is not easy to get around Calabria and researching the area can be tough.

The custom itineraries I offer will help with that.

Based on your preferences, I’ll create a custom itinerary, complete with hotel reservations, transfers, car rental and activities for each day of your trip. You can read more about that here.

Travel Consulting

For travelers who prefer to make their own reservations, but still need recommendations on which areas to visit, what activities to book or which city or location is the best base for their southern Italy vacation, Travel Consulting is the way to go. You can read more about that here.

Tips Booklets

I recently completed my very first tips booklet, “Don’t Get Stuck With Dirty Drawers … and 64 other tips for traveling in Calabria.” More information will be available soon.

Prizes and Fun Stuff

In conjunction with this week’s relaunch, I’ve joined forces with other Italophiles around the world to bring you some great prizes.

Check back this week to enter new drawings for prizes such as free nights at a bed and breakfast in Catanzaro, free itinerary planning and free Italy photos!

Today’s prize: A premium subscription to ItalianPod101, the award-winning website that was featured on Newsweek, PC Magazine and right here … at My Bella Vita.

All you have to do is leave a comment on *this* post between Monday, December 7 and Sunday, December 13. Winner will be announced on Monday, December 14.

In bocca al lupo!

The (Good Customer Service) Search Has Ended: They’ve Been Found

Posted on: Nov 27, 2009

A few weeks ago I asked where all of the good customer service guys had gone? I lamented the lack of a customer-service oriented mentality in south Italy and wondered how businesses could remain open with the attitude they have towards their customers.

Well today, I have that answer.

Rachael Ray’s Delmonico steaks with balsamic onions and steak saucephoto credit: Gudlyf

But before we get to that … I have a back story.

There is a steak house in Beaumont my family frequents as often as possible. They have great steaks, great sides and according to my cousin, Angelique, great fajitas-although I leave my Tex-Mex to the professionals.

One day seven or eight of my family members met there for lunch. Since my husband and I had a lunch date a few hours later with friends, we skipped the meal. We didn’t, however, skip the company and we joined them towards the end of their meal for a chat.

It was about that time my mother noticed a hair (eek!) in her plate. She didn’t complain, just pushed it back and continued talking. The ever-attentive server noticed, asked her about it and immediately apologized and offered to bring her a replacement dish.

She was finished anyway, she said, and insisted she wasn’t upset.

A few minutes later, the manager appeared.

“I’m so sorry, Ma’am (we are in Texas, remember!),” he said.

“Are you sure you don’t want a replacement?”

When she refused, he made another offer.

“We’d like to offer you all desserts-on the house!”

Well my family never met a dessert they didn’t like and they were thrilled with this customer service gesture.

“And what kind would you like?’ He asked, looking at my husband and me.

“Oh no. We didn’t even eat here,” I said apologetically. “We just came in to see them for a few minutes.”

“It doesn’t matter,” he said. “You are here now. What can I bring you?”

And that dining moment-at The Cattle Company restaurant in Beaumont, Texas-became the standard by which we measured all other customer service experiences.

And no one has ever matched them.

Until now.

Fast-forward three or four years and 6,000 miles to last Tuesday, November 17-the night of our 2nd anniversary.

We chose Carn & Vino in Catanzaro Lido-and if that name sounds familiar to you, it is because I’ve written of them before.

The restaurant has more elegance and class than any restaurant I’ve been to in southern Italy and the chef is among the most creative I’ve seen-anywhere.

But Tuesday night, I did not choose wisely.

Among the list of primi plates was a cocoa pasta dish, made with Gorgonzola cheese and topped with shredded black truffles.

Although I wasn’t sure if I liked truffles, with their strong, earthy scent and matching flavor, I thought I’d give it a try.

Now I know.

I don’t like truffles.

I picked at the plate and with the antipasto we’d shared and the quickly-diminishing bottle of wine, I was fine.

The owner stopped by the table.

“You didn’t like it?” He asked me.

My husband jumped in to help. “It was really just the truffles. They are too strong for her. She just didn’t choose well.”

Thanks, honey … .

The owner took my plate.

A few minutes later he returned.

“The chef is making you something else,” he told me.

“Oh no,” I insisted. “I’m ok. I’m not even hungry anymore.”

About that time, my husband asked him about the dessert options.

He chose homemade tiramisu. I chose panna cotta with frutti di bosco topping.

We finished our desserts and proceeded to the front of the restaurant.

“The desserts were compliments of the chef,” the owner told us.

We chatted briefly with the chef, thanked him profusely and left.

In the car my husband looked at the receipt and noticed that not only had the chef offered dessert, but the owner had removed my plate from the bill.

We were shocked.

We had finally found a restaurant whose customer service rivals our favorite steak house back home in Texas, and we found it in the most unusual place.

In another favorite steak house … in our new backyard.

Have you had any good customer service stories lately? Please share!

Travel Tip Tuesday: Five Things to Skip When Packing for Italy

Posted on: Nov 10, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday

Last week I listed five things every traveler should pack when heading to Italy. There were a few additions included in the comments and one suggestion for a WHAT NOT TO PACK list.

So today, I am sending out a big Travel Tip Tuesday thank you to Paula Russell, co-owner of Time of Your Life Tours who made the suggestion I am following through on today.

You see, most travelers aren’t adept at packing for Italy. It is true. They cram every pair of pants they own into their suitcase, throw in useless electronics and overindulge in socks and undies.

I know. I used to be one of them.

However, years of international traveling-and countless amounts of wasted space-have taught me what I really need to pack and what I can afford to leave at home.

Here are five things you can skip when packing for Italy.

Day 694 / 365 - Blowdryer Suicide
photo credit: JasonRogersFotographie

1. Blow Dryer

You’d be amazed-I am amazed!-at the number of people who visit our bed and breakfast and bring their own blow dryer. That is just throwing valuable suitcase space out the finestra, people. Email the B&Bs you will be visiting and ask if they have blow dryers in the rooms. Most likely they will. If they don’t-and you can’t make it to the next place without blow drying your hair-then pack a cute weather-appropriate hat and go with it. You’ll look trendy and you won’t weigh yourself down with a useless appliance.

2. Flat Iron, Curling Iron, Rollers

I know you think you need this, ladies, but resist the urge to pack your flat iron, curling iron, rollers or any other electronic hair-altering device. Even though they should work with the appropriate adapter or converter, that is not always the case. I have a dead Chi to prove it.

Black high heels peep-toe
photo credit: Markusram

3. Formal Clothes

Unless you have tickets for the opera or reservations at a black tie restaurant, leave your formal clothes at home. You won’t want to wear high heels-or for the guys, a tie-when touring the Roman Forum, sightseeing along the Amalfi Coast or taking the ferry into Sicily. Even though Italians do tend to dress up more than Americans, you won’t need your finest formals. For more tips on how to dress in Italy, read How Not to Look Like a Tourist in Southern Italy or check out Jessica’s What to Wear in Italy series on WhyGo Italy.

4. Daily Change of Undies and Socks

It makes sense if you are going on a 15-day Italian vacation that you should pack underwear and socks accordingly. But you don’t have to pack a different pair for each day. Plan on doing laundry if you will be in Italy for more than a week and consider buying a small bottle of laundry detergent-once you have arrived in Italy-and hand washing some of your garments.

5. Expensive Anything

Men, forget about packing that expensive watch and ladies, leave your best jewelry and expensive bags at home. Nothing will wreck your once-in-a-lifetime Italy vacation faster than losing precious jewelry, and expensive bags draw attention to you, making you an even bigger target for pickpockets or train-traveling thieves.

Consider buying inexpensive costume jewelry to accent your clothes and use small messenger bag as your purse. You’ll be glad you did.

**Bonus Tips: Paula Russell of Paula’s Tour Talk blog who inspired this post has three more items to add, or is remove?-from your list.

- High Heels–Walking on the narrow sidewalks and uneven pavement in high heels is an invitation to disaster. If you sprain your ankle, you might as well go home. Even for dinner in a special restaurant wear flats. Once you are seated no one can see your footwear anyway.

- More Than One Guide Book–Choose one with practical information on such things as museum hours, bus and train information and sights with a clear map, large enough for you to easily read. Tourist information offices and your hotel staff can help you with everything else such as restaurants and entertainment.

- Your Computer– Unless you absolutely must be in email contact at all times, leave your laptop at home. You are on vacation after all. Plus, for about one euro per hour, you can log in at any Internet cafe check your Inbox as needed.

What else do you think travelers can leave off of their Italy packing list?

Let’s see what Robin has to say over at My Melange.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Travel Tip Tuesday: Five Things to Pack for Your Trip to Italy

Posted on: Nov 3, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday

Packing for Italy doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, if you plan well, use your packing list and research the weather it can almost be a breeze.

I said almost.

Although, like my Travel Tip Tuesday counterpart, I advocate carry-on only travel, there are a few things you absolutely must include on your packing for Italy checklist.

And here they are – five things every traveler should pack for their trip to Italy.

I tried the bundle packing method tonight... photo credit: Trinity

1. Comfortable, dark shoes

Walking shoes. Running shoes. Tennis shoes? Take your pick, but whatever you choose, make sure those babies are comfortable. Those charming cobblestone roads are hell on your feet, so pack a pair of your favorite, previously worn in shoes-in a dark color-and your tootsies’ll be good to go.

2. Sweater

Ok, so this is a no-brainer if you are traveling in the winter months, but you will need a light sweater even in the summer. Nights can get cool in some places and many churches require sleeves, so grab your favorite cardigan and wrap it around you. For extra benefit, use it as part of your travel outfit to keep you warm on the plane and to avoid packing extra luggage.

3. Light Day-pack

Select a small backpack you can easily roll inside your suitcase to serve as your day-pack when you are in Italy. It needs to be large enough to carry your camera, guidebook or photo-copied pages, journal, pen and water, but light enough that you can carry it all day without getting overly tired.

4. Money Belt

I know they are super-cool and you’d likely have packed one anyway, right? Well, ok, so they aren’t “cool,” but they are useful for traveling around Italy, especially if you plan to spend any time on the subway in Rome or on the train. I made the mistake of thinking I was too cool for a fanny pack once, too, and it cost me the equivalent of a few hundred bucks, a couple of credit cards and a day of my vacation.

5. OTC Meds and Contacts

You already know to pack your prescription medications, but don’t overlook little things like Advil, Tums or cold medicine that isn’t easy to find in Italy. Additionally, if you wear contacts, pack an extra pair. They will be difficult to replace while you are traveling and could cause an unsightly (he he) delay in your vacation.

Have you been to Italy? What do you think Italy-bound travelers need to include on their lists?

For more Travel Tip Tuesday tips, head over to Robin’s at My Melange.

Until next time … Buon Viaggio!

Moore n’ More About People, Places and Things: Calabria Edition

Posted on: Sep 11, 2009

Watch out Hollywood! On September 7, German filmmaker Wim Wenders began shooting his latest movie in Calabria. The 3D film is set to explore the relationship between immigrants and natives in and around the medieval village of Badolato.

Does that name sound familiar to you? Well it should. Calabria’s own, Michelle of Bleeding Espresso calls this village home and rumor has it the film crew will be filming near her house all day today. Come on, Michelle … sneak in the background. We expect to see you there when the movie is released.

Badolato (CZ), La chiesa dell'Immacolata.
photo credit: Fiore S. Barbato

And speaking of just released, the Calabrian band QuartAumentata just released their fourth CD, “U Mundu Balla,” or, the world is dancing. If you’d like to add their concert to your Calabria vacation, click here to check their tour schedule.

For more information on the group, you can read this English-language interview from OnMilwaukee.com, check out their Calabrian proverb of the day-or watch this quick video from a live show they performed near Reggio Calabria.

If you want some Calabrian nibbles to go with those funky, new tunes, then check out this delicious new food blog, written and published by Calabrian-American chef, writer and tour guide, Rosetta Costantino. The idea for Calabria From Scratch was hatched in 2004 when Rosetta and her family were featured in an article in the San Francisco Chronicle, an article that, ironically, I read years before virtually meeting Rosetta. Today, Rosetta stays busy teaching classes, planning her culinary tours to Calabria and writing her new Calabrian cookbook, which is scheduled for release next Fall.

Oh yea … I can’t wait to get my hands on that!

If you are in Calabria, enjoy these last few weeks of sun and surf. And to everyone else … Buon Weekend!

Expat Excursions: Day Trips from Catanzaro

Posted on: Sep 4, 2009

It is a well-known fact that many people back home covet the expat life because, more often than not, that life is filled with exotic-sounding day trips and easy weekend excursions.

I know, I know … life is hard.

But here in Calabria you can’t hop on a train in the morning and be dining in the Piazza Navona by lunch. It just ain’t happenin’. In fact, there are few places you can get to easily and quickly and cheaply that your stateside friends have even seen on a map.

So what do we do here in Calabria when we are looking for an exciting expat excursion?

Sicily Aug 08photo: Fabio Macòr

Well, like my childhood role model once said, “We don’t go farther than our own backyard.” So, click your heels together three times and come with me, through some of the best Calabrian expat excursions this side of the rainbow.

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Cherrye Moore is a Texas-born freelance writer living in Catanzaro, Italy. Read how it all started here.
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