Last week I introduced you to Monica Kripalani, founder of Monica’s Fine Foods in California, who traveled to bella Calabria last summer, fell in love with the area-and the food-and started selling Calabria olive oil in the US. I’m always interested in why people travel to southern Italy and even more excited to hear tales of their trip.

Today, Monica is sharing the story of how Monica’s Fine Foods and Davoli Extra Virgin Olive Oil met, feel in love and forged a relationship that is blessing people throughout America and Canada with some of Calabria’s liquid gold.

In case you missed it, there is still time for readers and bloggers alike to win either a free bottle of Calabria olive oil or a $50 gift certificate to Monica’s online store.

The details are right here.

Our Escape to Calabria and Discovery of Davoli Extra Virgin olive oil

On a hot June day in Sorrento, my husband and I boarded the train for a six-hour trip south to Lamezia Terme. We had purchased our second-class tickets in the US and this was our first European experience … we weren’t sure what to expect.

We dragged our bags into a six-person un-air conditioned-at least that day!-compartment, after weaving through luggage in the aisles on the train. An elderly couple who I fantasized were going to tell us a story about a visit with their grandchildren sat opposite us and and older signora sat by the window.

A nun-who was just transferred to a small town in Calabria-sat beside us. It was truly charming … real rural Italian charm at its best.

The look of grumpiness and smiles on the same faces puzzled us. Our seat companions did not speak English and our Italian was limited to “Buon Giorno” and “Gelato.” It was only when I asked the lady across the cabin if we could open the window that I realized what the other three had been trying to do with no avail.

“No,” she had told them. “You’ll mess up my hairand the noise in the tunnel will hurt my ears!”

But when I asked her … she immediately agreed!

We enjoyed watching the rural landscape as we traveled down to Lamezia Terme, where we were met by a friend and his family.

They bathed us in infamous southern Italian warmth and love. They introduced us to Calabria and to the Davoli family who made the most superb tasting pure extra virgin olive oil I have ever tasted in my life.

And this started my love affair with Calabria that I share today through my business at Monica’s Fine Foods.

Thanks, Monica and everyone else, be sure to sign up to win those prizes!

In bocca al lupo.

Did you know 25% of Italy’s olive oil comes from my favorite little region that is burrowed down deep at the toe of the boot? Well, it does.

It is also a staple in every Calabrian kitchen and is used in antipasto dishes, pasta plates, meat, fish and even desserts. In fact, it is a little joke around our house because most recipes don’t even list olive oil or garlic in their ingredients … because, you know, they are a given – you should know to use them.

Marcella Hazan, renowned Italian food writer and author of Marcella Cucina cookbook said, “The taste of a dish for which you need olive oil will be as good or as ordinary as the oil you use. A sublime one can lift even modest ingredients to eminent heights of flavor; a dreary oil will pull the best ingredients down to its own level. Partial clues to the quality of the olive oil you are buying are supplied by the label and the price, but ultimately, the only way to determine which one, among those available, is right for you is to taste and compare.”

And that’s where we come in.

Through the magical interwoven web of the Internet, I met Monica Kripalani, a new distributor of Calabrian olive oil whose recent trip to the mezziogiorno changed her life. After a brief tour through Calabria and into the hills of Lamezia Terme, Monica decided to open Monica’s Fine Foods to share her new-found love of Davoli Olive Oil with North America.

And that, my friends, means you.

Monica is giving away one 250ml bottle of Davoli Extra Virgin Olive Oil to one lucky Facebook Fan *and* a $50 gift certificate to a random blogger.

Interested, any?  Here are the details!

To be eligible to win the free 250ml bottle of Calabrian olive oil, all you need to do is become a Facebook fan of Monica’s Fine Foods before Friday, February 26 at 5:00 PM (Pacific Time). At that point, Monica will randomly select a winner from her Facebook Fans and the winner will be announced here on My Bella Vita on Monday, March 1.

Bloggers, this part is for you …

For your chance to win a $50 gift certificate to Monica’s Fine Foods, just  re-post this contest information in full on your website or blog by Friday, February 26 at 5:00 PM. Leave a comment here on My Bella Vita telling us about your post, and you will automatically be entered into the drawing.

Due to distribution restrictions, Monica can only ship items in the US and Canada, so if you have a US address … you are good to go!

In bocca al lupo!

What is your favorite way to use olive oil? I think a simple pasta with aglio, olio e peperonico (garlic, olive oil and red pepper) highlights good olive oil and brings out the flavors of spicy peppers. What about you?

*Pictures by Monica of Monica’s Fine Foods

A couple of months ago Katie at TripBase started a Three Best-Kept Travel Secrets meme and it’s been floating around the blogosphere since then. Robin of My Melange tagged me and well, since I love talking about Calabria so dang much, I thought I’d give it a go.

Calabria is, herself, a well-known travel secret, virtually unknown on the international stage and enjoyed mostly by northern Italians, Germans and Calabrian descendants returning to the land of their grandfathers’ births.

Even Calabrian hotspots Tropea, Sila and Reggio’s touristy status is relative. Our coasts are lined with travel secrets that are buried in caves, hiding in medieval villages and peaking out of hidden nooks.

But still … I have my favorites.

Paola

(c) WindowWeb

Paola is home to Calabria’s patron saint, San Francesco di Paola (Saint Francis of Paola) who founded the Minimi Order in the Roman Catholic Church in the 1400s. For years the village has been a main stop for religious trekkers, who flock to Paola to visit Saint Francis’ birthplace, the monastery and any of the dozens of churches and chiesettas, but this little village really does have it all. In addition to its established place in Calabria’s religious past, Paola has clean, rocky beaches, a Norman castle, fountains and a clock tower.

Pietragrande and Caminia

Ok, so regular readers have heard of Pietragrande and Caminia-and yes, I am kinda cheating here by including them both- but these beaches rival any I’ve seen in the bel paese and thus … are worth mentioning again.

Pietragrande and Caminia are located about 15 minutes from Catanzaro Lido and overlook the Ionian Sea on the Gulf of Squillace. They feature dramatic cliffs and warm blue-green waters that kiss the numerous caves and grottos that dot their coasts. The lack of restaurant options near the beaches adds to their charm and makes visitors feel like they’ve discovered a private slice of Mediterranean. In the summer months, the beaches are filled with locals and nightclubs are open on both beaches.

Amantea

(c) Salpe

Any town whose name derives from the Greek word “lover,” can’t be too shabby, and Amantea, located in the province of Cosenza, certainly lives up to its name. In addition to its glistening Tyrrhenian Sea beaches and caves, Amantea’s imposing fortress, an ancient Byzantine castle and nearby monastery are worth a visit.

Since many of the travel bloggers I know have already been tagged, I’m going to put this back on you. What is your favorite “secret” place in southern Italy? You can either leave it in the comments or write a post about it and let me know!

A few weeks ago I asked where all of the good customer service guys had gone? I lamented the lack of a customer-service oriented mentality in south Italy and wondered how businesses could remain open with the attitude they have towards their customers.

Well today, I have that answer.

photo credit: Gudlyf

But before we get to that … I have a back story.

There is a steak house in Beaumont my family frequents as often as possible. They have great steaks, great sides and according to my cousin, Angelique, great fajitas-although I leave my Tex-Mex to the professionals.

One day seven or eight of my family members met there for lunch. Since my husband and I had a lunch date a few hours later with friends, we skipped the meal. We didn’t, however, skip the company and we joined them towards the end of their meal for a chat.

It was about that time my mother noticed a hair (eek!) in her plate. She didn’t complain, just pushed it back and continued talking. The ever-attentive server noticed, asked her about it and immediately apologized and offered to bring her a replacement dish.

She was finished anyway, she said, and insisted she wasn’t upset.

A few minutes later, the manager appeared.

“I’m so sorry, Ma’am (we are in Texas, remember!),” he said.

“Are you sure you don’t want a replacement?”

When she refused, he made another offer.

“We’d like to offer you all desserts-on the house!”

Well my family never met a dessert they didn’t like and they were thrilled with this customer service gesture.

“And what kind would you like?’ He asked, looking at my husband and me.

“Oh no. We didn’t even eat here,” I said apologetically. “We just came in to see them for a few minutes.”

“It doesn’t matter,” he said. “You are here now. What can I bring you?”

—

And that dining moment-at The Cattle Company restaurant in Beaumont, Texas-became the standard by which we measured all other customer service experiences.

And no one has ever matched them.

Until now.

Fast-forward three or four years and 6,000 miles to last Tuesday, November 17-the night of our 2nd anniversary.

We chose Carn & Vino in Catanzaro Lido-and if that name sounds familiar to you, it is because I’ve written of them before.

The restaurant has more elegance and class than any restaurant I’ve been to in southern Italy and the chef is among the most creative I’ve seen-anywhere.

But Tuesday night, I did not choose wisely.

Among the list of primi plates was a cocoa pasta dish, made with Gorgonzola cheese and topped with shredded black truffles.

Although I wasn’t sure if I liked truffles, with their strong, earthy scent and matching flavor, I thought I’d give it a try.

Now I know.

I don’t like truffles.

I picked at the plate and with the antipasto we’d shared and the quickly-diminishing bottle of wine, I was fine.

The owner stopped by the table.

“You didn’t like it?” He asked me.

My husband jumped in to help. “It was really just the truffles. They are too strong for her. She just didn’t choose well.”

Thanks, honey … .

The owner took my plate.

A few minutes later he returned.

“The chef is making you something else,” he told me.

“Oh no,” I insisted. “I’m ok. I’m not even hungry anymore.”

About that time, my husband asked him about the dessert options.

He chose homemade tiramisu. I chose panna cotta with frutti di bosco topping.

We finished our desserts and proceeded to the front of the restaurant.

“The desserts were compliments of the chef,” the owner told us.

We chatted briefly with the chef, thanked him profusely and left.

In the car my husband looked at the receipt and noticed that not only had the chef offered dessert, but the owner had removed my plate from the bill.

We were shocked.

We had finally found a restaurant whose customer service rivals our favorite steak house back home in Texas, and we found it in the most unusual place.

In another favorite steak house … in our new backyard.

Have you had any good customer service stories lately? Please share!

As a Calabria B&B owner, I’ve seen my fair share of guests – some, wonderfully charming as they are become like family and our days are a little dimmer when they’ve gone. Others … eh, not so much.

You might feel the urge to chalk that up to personality preferences, but you’d be wrong. We love 95% of the guests who frequent our bed and breakfast … and I’m not just saying that in case they are reading.

(But if you are … hi!)

Regardless of their personality, be it outgoing, serious, shy, funny, we love having them around and over the years we’ve established strong relationships with many of our loyal guests. Sometimes they join us for a night out, sometimes we meet up with them when we are traveling to their home cities and other times we connect on Facebook or through email.

But sometimes a lasting connection is not in cards.

If you want to guarantee your next B&B vacation ends with the hosts counting down the minutes and shuffling you out the door, here’s what you do.

photo credit: Quinn Dombrowski

Steal Liquor From their Kitchen

Last summer we had a larger-than-life guest visit us from Prague-she was beautiful, outgoing and sassy. And she brought us liquor. Two bottles, in fact.

Last week I offered this Czech specialty to some friends who had stopped by to visit. I reached in the freezer and low-and-behold-it was gone.

That’s just not cool.

Don’t Check-in on Time

True B&Bs are family-owned businesses that are generally staffed by two or three people. For this reason, they set limitations on check-in times-usually from 3:00 – 7:oo or 8:00 at night. I’ve seen B&Bs refuse to accept guests who can’t make their check-in time. While we aren’t that strict, we do appreciate guests who either make an effort to meet our check-in time (8:00 PM) or who notify us in advance so we can be prepared.

Loyal guests who continually abuse our flexibility and check in after 9:00, 10:00, even 11:00 at night aren’t my favorite Facebook friends.

Break Something … and don’t tell them

Yes, yes, accidents happen, people drop things, wine glasses break. I get that and B&Bs owners know these things will happen. But if you really want your B&B to hate you, break something … I mean, let it shatter into hundreds of tiny, glass pieces, mix in some soap or shampoo, and don’t tell them.

Ha ha ha ha ha … just imagine how funny it will be when they walk in to clean your room and slide on the glass-infested suds you’ve left for them. Ha ha ha ha!!!

Make a Mess

To really put your B&B owners over the top, all you have to do is make a mess-not in the soap sud scenario described above-bur rather, in common areas and better yet, during the night when they are sleeping.

To help cater to our guests’ needs, we offer use of the B&B kitchen, to eat takeout, store snacks or sip wine with friends. If you want to take advantage of something like this-and not in the good way-then be sure you stain the tablecloth, don’t rinse your dishes and leave your plastic cups and napkins tossed on the floor so they can pick them up before the other guests arrive for breakfast.

So, are you ready to go out and make some enemies with the B&Bs in your travel future? What other things do you think you can do to get on that do-not-admit list?

Becoming fluent in another language takes hard work, a little patience and a tough skin. You have to listen to the language. You have to speak the language. And it helps if you can live the language.

So if all of this is true … why, oh why is it so dang hard to learn Calabrese?

I hear it all of the time.

I think it is cute and clever.

And I already know a word or two.

Today, I’m gonna share it with you.

And just so you can be deep and philosophical like the Calabrians around me, here are three easy-to-remember Calabrese proverbs you can learn today.

photo credit: santafeegret

Calabrese Proverb: “L’arcu suca acqua.”

Italian Translation: “L’arcobaleno prepara la pioggia.”

Translation for the rest of us: “The rainbow prepares the rain.”

… and isn’t that a sweet thought?

photo credit: Ange Soleil ( a.k.a Tweng )

Calabrese Proverb: “Lavùru fattu, dinàri aspetta.”

Italian Translation: “Chi lavora deve essere pagato.”

Translation for the rest of us: “He who works, must be paid.”

and for the record, I couldn’t agree more.

photo credit: luis perez

Calabrese Proverb: “Si ‘un ti muovi ti mangianu i muschi.”

Italian Translation: “Se non ti muovi ti mangeranno le mosche.”

Translation for the rest of us: “If you don’t move, the flies will eat you.”

I’m speechless …

I hope you enjoy this three-minute Calabrese lesson and in bocca al lupo!

It is a well-known fact that many people back home covet the expat life because, more often than not, that life is filled with exotic-sounding day trips and easy weekend excursions.

I know, I know … life is hard.

But here in Calabria you can’t hop on a train in the morning and be dining in the Piazza Navona by lunch. It just ain’t happenin’. In fact, there are few places you can get to easily and quickly and cheaply that your stateside friends have even seen on a map.

So what do we do here in Calabria when we are looking for an exciting expat excursion?

photo: Fabio Macòr

Well, like my childhood role model once said, “We don’t go farther than our own backyard.” So, click your heels together three times and come with me, through some of the best Calabrian expat excursions this side of the rainbow.

Post continues here …

Did you know Calabria was the 10th largest region in the Bel Paese? Well it is. With more square kilometers than world-famous Liguria or Campania and just slightly smaller than Rome’s Lazio, Bella Calabria has a lot to offer.

So how can I possibly narrow it down to five?

Well, I can’t.

But I’m gonna try.

Calabria is divided into five provinces-Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio di Calabria, Crotone and Vibo Valentia and each of these provinces has a jewel … something special that makes that province unique.

So here we go.

Catanzaro

My home province is famous, not only for giving birth to the Paparazzi, but for the Archaeological Park at Roccelletta di Borgia. Located just 10 minutes from my home (and Il Cedro Bed and Breakfast) the ruins at Roccelletta are set in an ancient olive plantation and feature a Greek theater, a Roman square, an amphitheater and other ancient buildings from the last century.

Cosenza

The Province of Cosenza tops my list with fun things to do and see in Calabria but none are as impressive as the Grotta del Romito. Located about 13 kilometers from Papasidero, evidence of the earliest Calabrians, with skeletons dating back 10,000 years, was discovered along with the 12,000 year old “Bos Primigenius” Paleolithic drawing of a bull on a cliff.

Reggio Calabria

The famous Bronzes of Riace statues date back to 5th century BC and are thought to have been buried in the Ionion Sea for more than 2,000 years. Discovered in 1972, they are the main attraction at the Museo Nazionale in Reggio Calabria and are considered to be the most important Greek sculptures in the world.

Crotone

Located in the hills along the Ionian Coast between Crotone and Sibari, Cirò is home to Calabria’s most famous vineyard. According to local legend, Calabrian athletes drank Cirò wine to celebrate success during the early Olympic games. Today Cirò wine is considered to be one of the most “Greek” Italian wines in the country.

Vibo Valentia

Not quite as famous as neighboring Tropea, Pizzo Calabro is a pint-sized Medieval village with a Baroque church, Aragonese castle-where Napoleon Bonaparte’s brother-in-law was imprisoned-and arguably the best block of gelato in Italy. Pizzo is a must for its quintessential Calabrian life, dramatic views of the St. Eufemia Gulf and its famous hazelnut and chocolate cocoa-covered tartufo ice cream.

Have you been to Calabria? What other must-sees do you think should make the list?

 
If you’ve been around the Italy expat scene for a while, you have likely heard tale of disheartening shopping trips, overpriced shoes, bags and bras or the never-ending search for a properly-fitting pair of jeans.
 
Shopping in Italy when you are on vacation=fun.
 
Shopping in Italy when you live here and a pair of pants costs a week’s salary=not so fun.
 
Until now.
 
Tuesday, April 7 was the Grand Opening of a new centro commerciale near Catanzaro Lido. Located about seven kilometers from my house, Le Fontane Shopping Center-senza le fontane-is a sight for a shopaholic’s sore eyes.
 

 
The center’s main attraction is France’s “walmartesque” Auchan superstore,whose top exterior walls are covered in quaint Calabrian village scenes.
 

 
Inside, the store is typically Italian, but the Calabrese display offers shoppers a taste-test of some of Calabria’s finest homemade mixes.
 

 
This €30 million center features Media World electronics, shoe stores, lingerie stores, sporting stores, restaurants, bars, a travel agency, post office and is also home to Calabria’s newest H&M.
 

 
And this makes me happy.
 
Very happy.
 
On a quick information-gathering excursion yesterday, I uncovered a cocktail dress for €29.00, shoes for €24.00 and summer pants, sundresses and t-shirts for around €14.00 each.
 
Remember, this trip was purely for reconnaissance.
 
It was my sacrifice for you.
 
Next time I go, I’ll leave my husband at home. Take his checkbook. And bring along some of my favorite expat gal-pals.
 
Won’t you join me?
 
Have you ever shopped in a H&M? What did you think? If you’ve been to/lived in Italy, what is your favorite store here and why?
 

Le Fontane Shopping Center

SS 106

Catanzaro Lido (Calabria)

 
There is one in every city – in every family – in every circle of friends … . There is a place you depend on. A place you rely on. A place you return to time and time again for a good meal.
 
For my husband and me here in Catanzaro, Italy that place is Pizzeria da Ciro in Catanzaro Lido.
 
You see, I was feeling a little let down after yesterday’s “Where NOT to eat ” post, and I thought it was only fair to offer you loyal My Bella Vita readers and anxious connoisseurs of Calabria’s finest foods, a little backup.
 
Two-to-three times a month we find ourselves driving along the corso to Catanzaro Lido for what we’ve termed our “typical date night dinner.”
 

 
Admittedly, the building is nothing to look at, but once inside you are greeted by friendly faces, smiling servers and jovial pizzaioli. Ciro and his family are from Naples and they have proudly served up Naples-style pizza with soft dough and chunks of fresh mozzarella … and the best potato crochettes I’ve ever tasted, since 1983.
 

 
In 1998, Ciro’s brother, Stefano, expanded the family business by opening his own version of Pizzeria da Ciro, down the street. With so many pizza-eatin’ Italians marching around Catanzaro, the brothers have plenty of customers to share. In addition to the two dine-in restaurants, there are also three take-away stations in Catanzaro, where the Ciardi family delivers their paradise pizza a casa.
 
Ciro is only open for dinner six days a week (seven days a week during the summer months), while Stefano’s Ciro serves pasta dishes, second plates and pizza, and is open for lunch and dinner six days a week. (Smart family, though that one – those six days don’t coincide, so pizza-cravin’ Calabrians can enjoy Ciro pizza seven nights a week.)
 

 
Although the new Ciro pizzeria is rustic and quaint, we have remained faithful to the original clan. I’m nothing if I am not loyal … .
 
Here are both addresses:
 
Ciro (original)
Via Fiume, 38
Catanzaro Lido; Tel 0961.737794
 
- and -
 
Ciro (#2)
Via Europa
Catanzaro Lido; Tel 0961.33008
 
When you are done, head down the lungomare and visit Marrons Glacés for some of the best gelato in southern Italy.
 
And just because today is Thursday … and because I love Ciros *so* much … here is pizza heart – from me to you.
 

 
Happy Love Thursday!