So what do you do if you are in one of Italy’s most picturesque cities and find yourself with a hankering for two, three, or even four scoops of homemade southern Italian gelato?
 
You hit the beach.
 
Just a few blocks down the lungomare from the tiny green kiosk of the Gelateria Cesare is the ultra-modern, uber-trendy Cremeria Sottozero-today’s stop on the Tour del Gelato.
 

 
Sottozero is a full service Italian bar that serves pastries, apertivi, coffee, granita and of course … gelato.
 

 
The soft, fluffy pillows of gelato consumed more than four cases, each offering a new, exciting flavor to tempt our taste buds.
 

 
Licorice? Good. But not for me …
 
Chili pepper? Absolutely! Oh shoot-they are all out.
 
Sapori di Sicilia? A mix of the best flavors of Sicily? Count me in!
 
After agonizing over this life-and-death-type decision, I choose sapori di sicilia and coconut. I was not disappointed.
 
“So what do you think?” our Reggio guide asked as she took another bite from her coppetta. “Who wins? Cesare or Sottozero?”
 
I looked around the group as my new friend’s young Brazilian friend joined us to hear the results.
 

 
“Two votes here for Sottozero,” she said as she pointed to her husband and herself.
 
“Me, too,” one of the Americans said. “I think.”
 
“I can’t decide,” the other American said.
 
They all looked at me.
 
“Well,” I began, as I licked my cone just as the Sicilian pistachio blend started dripping down my hand. “I like the atmosphere at Cesare. It is small and quaint and cozy. Sottozero is too modern.”
 
They all nodded.
 
“I also like the staff at Cesare. They are friendlier and more welcoming.”
 
They all looked at each other. Giggle. Giggle. Laugh.
 
“What?” I asked, obviously missing the joke.
 
They pointed to my new friend’s Brazilian friend who was, by the way, not laughing and I noticed his shirt for the first time.
 
There in the upper left corner of his black striped vest was the word “Sottozero.”
 
Gulp.
 
“Uhm … uhm …,” I said, quickly trying to back peddle my way out of this situation. “I meant, uhm … the staff here is great, too … maybe he doesn’t speak English?”
 
“He speaks English.”
 
“Well,” I declared as I pulled my friends away from the bar and towards the beach. “What I was going to say is that Cesare is precious and I loved the people-but the gelato at Sottozero is richer, creamier and well … more sinfully delicious.”
 
So there you have it. Four votes for Sottozero and one undecided. And according to Sottozero’s logo … there is really only one choice.
 

 
But if you are ever on or around the Reggio Calabria lungomare, I think you should do the taste-test yourself because, really, when gelato is this good … who’s to say one is sweeter or which group of people is really friendlier?
 

Cremeria Sottozero

Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Number 83

89100 Reggio Calabria (Lido)

Italy

 
* Visitors to Catanzaro no longer have to drive the two hours south to Reggio for Sottozero gelato. A new kiosk recently opened in the new Centro Commerciale Le Fontane and all of their classic tastes, including the mousse-like semifreddo flavors are available there.
 
 

 
Remember last week when I told you all about my day trip to Reggio Calabria? Oh you know … where I found those buns of bronze?
 
Well I have a confession to make. And no, it has nothing to do with those big naked men … but it is just as sinful.
 
Reggio Calabria is famed for not one, but two world-class gelaterie. Everyone in town has their favorite and they’ll venomously defend their gelato maker of choice … or die of insulin overdose trying.
 
You see, I’m a gelato connoisseur myself so I wasn’t content to take the advice of Reggio day-trippers who had come before me. I had to taste them and see how they compared to my longtime favorite, Marron Glacés.
 
So in the name of research-I tried them both.
 
Today’s stop on the Tour del Gelato leads us to Gelateria Cesare, located in a bright green kiosk near the lungomare and just steps away from both the Reggio Calabria Lido train station and the National Museum of Magna Grecia.
 

 
For more than 50 years, Gelateria Cesare has been dishing out what they claim-and what at least 50% of Reggio Calabrians claim-is the best gelato in town and with about three dozen flavors, including hard-to-find low-fat and sugar-free varieties, I can’t say they are wrong.
 

 
Chocolate and cream flavors more your thing? Check these babies out.
 

 
Cesare’s has even had some high-profile taste testers give them the thumbs up.
 

 
Perhaps what was even more impressive to me than the creamy gelato and full, rich flavors was Cesare’s staff and atmosphere. The kiosk is barely large for 10 people and the staff-laughing, joking and smiling-eagerly offer samples while you search their icy glass containers for your favorite flavors.
 
They have four sizes available, including the mini cup (€1.50) which is perfect for a post-pizza dessert or a lazy afternoon.
 

Gelateria Cesare

Piazza Indipendenza

Reggio Calabria (Lido)

Calabria

 
In order to best compare Cesare to Marron Glacés, I chose my two favorite flavors-pistachio and spagnola. They were sweet, cold and refreshing and the black cherry left just a twinge of a bittersweet aftertaste. But how did Cesare hold up against Reggio-famed Sottozero? Come back on Wednesday to find out!
 
* Photo of Berlu at Cesare’s is from GelateriaCesare.It.
 
 

 
All hail the Gelato Giant, the Connoisseur of the Cone, the Explorer of Epicurean Enlightenment … or, for those of you in the know … Ms. Adventures in Italy.
 

A couple of years ago, Tour del Gelato was launched in the name of all that is good to showcase gelaterie around the world that have one commonality … absolutely incomparable and deliciously mouth-watering, so-creamy-it-melts-onto-your-hands gelato.

And this is Catanzaro’s first entry.

My first visit to Catanzaro was in August 2003 – my first stop?

Marrons Glacès

Back then, eager patrons crammed into a tightly packed bar, paid €1.50 for their cones and battled for one of two tables available inside. In proper Italian mode, Marrons Glacès quickly began organizing their packed house by providing ticket machines. When lines to get to the ticket machines started crowding Catanzaro’s newest hot spot, Marrons Glacès owners took action.

They began distributing ticket numbers at the register and they expanded the joint, a few more tables inside … an over-sized patio outside … and it’s still just €1.50 for your choice of cup or cone.

So the crowds kept coming.

It was easy when Michelle, of Bleeding Espresso asked if I wanted to join her today and recognize two of Calabria’s best gelaterie. Not only do I love to share this place with visitors and guests, but I’ll jump at any opportunity to have gelato, especially this gelato.

 
So, I headed out, husband in tow for our typical “date night” locals … Da Ciro’s Pizza, Marrons Glacès Gelato and a stroll along the Catanzaro Lido lungomare.
 

 
Unfortunately, my camera’s night pics leave much to be desired, but there isn’t really a sign from the Lungomare side … and what they have isn’t well-lit. However, it is impossible to miss. Marrons Glacès is located halfway down the Lungomare … and there is always a crowd. But just in case, the address is
 

Via Lungomare

88100 Catanzaro Lido

+39 0961.31306

 
As normal, the bar was hopping and I had more than one angry Italian waiting behind me as I snapped away.
 

 
Sadly for them, they are almost always waiting on me. With 52 varieties of cold homemade deliciousness, it is hard for a gal to choose, even though I have my staples … pistacchio, fragola and spagnola.
 

 
Really. You can’t go wrong with those.
 
Notice there is no picture of the final product? The top-heavy cone bobbling around the center and drizzling down the side with the glistening promise of a sticky sweet surprise?
 
Well, that would be my fault.
 
I asked my, uh… honey to guard my cone while I took one last picture of the case. I looked up to snap a quick pic of the cone – and it was half gone.
 
I promise you, people …
 
This stuff is that good.
 
Now that you are hungry, head over to Bleeding Espresso and check out Badolato’s best – Michelle is telling you all about it today. And for goodness sake’s people … give these places a try!
 
So tell me. What is your all-time favorite fall back flavor? Maybe it is hazelnut, or coconut or apple … see why I can’t ever decide?